Bordeaux 2008

[weinfex]

Hat mich meine Frau heute auch schon gefragt ,
Sie fand es aber nicht so lustig, dass ich Sie ausgelacht
habe ...

Hallo,

zurück zu gewöhnlichen Bordeaux-Erlebnissen. Interessant fand ich:



Und zwar deshalb, weil der zB im Vergleich zu dem Haut Bages Liberal 2006 überhaupt nicht gemacht ist. Kein Schmeichler, sondern ganz klassischer Wein, der in anderen Jahren sicher besser gelingt. Dennoch mag ich das. Aber bezahlbar sollte er bleiben!

Grüße,

wolf

Falls ja, wäre ich auch daran interessiert...

Am 16.11.2010 war ich auch an der BDX 2008er Arrivage. Hier meine Eindrücke:

Ferrande blanc (Graves):
Sehr fruchtig, exotisch, sexy mit gelben und exotischen Früchten. Sicherlich ein junger Spass und von mir 88 GPoints

Ferrande rouge:
Extrem polierte Nase, fast marmeladig mit massig Vanille, mir fehlt hier die Würze, die Klasse und Struktur. Moderner, easy drinking Wein für den Alltag, der sicherlich jetzt schon viel Spass bereitet. 86 GPoints

Carbonnieux blanc:
Grasig, verschlossen, in der Struktur noch ein bisschen zu eng, die Säure bissig. 88(+?) GPoints

Carbonnieux rouge:
Wieder easydrinking aber hier mit mehr Frische und Säure und damit auch mehr Puste für die weiteren Jahren. 87+ GPoints

Domaine de Chevalier blanc:
Kalk in der Nase, Kalk im Gaumen, extrem dicht, fast nichtssagend vor lauter Kraft. Das Konstrukt muss sich hier wahrscheinlich durch laaanges Lagern noch finden. Hier fehlt bei mir definitv die Erfahrung so etwas zu bewerten. 90+(?) GPoints

Domaine de Chevalier rouge:
Kirschen und Cassis, tiefe Frucht, wirkt sehr dicht und klassisch. Auch hier verschlossen, das Potenzial lässt sich aber erahnen. Von mir 91+ GPoints

Fieuzal blanc:
Wow, was für ein Hammerwein! Geniale Aromatik, von Birne bis Stachelbeere, Ananas, extrem fruchtig und doch diskret und elegant. Nur für die Aromatik müsste man diesem Wein 90+ Punkte geben. Die Struktur isdt hier nicht so massiv aber auch gut, mit jetzt schon gut integrierter Säure. Nicht für die Ewigkeit aber ein Wahnsinnsgenuss!
93 GPoints

Haut Bailly:
Sehr würzige, frische Nase durchsetzt mit Minze, Käutern und Cassis. Im Gaumen frisch, mit noch feinen aber adstringierenden Gerbstoffen. Wirkt einfach saftig und lecker! 92+ GPoints

Haut Bergey rouge:
Wow, wieso kannte ich diesen Wein nicht vorher. Das ist gewaltiger Stoff würde ich behaupten. Hier paart sich moderne, vanillige Frucht mit Rasse und Würze und einer Struktur für 10 Jahre +. Für mich die Entdeckung des Abends und deutlich besser als viele andere bekanntere Weine. 90+ GPoints hiervon werde ich bestimmt noch etwas kaufen!

Larrivet Haut brion rouge:
Würziges Cassis und Minze. Ist eher schlank mit angenehmer erfirschender Säure. 88 GPoints

Latour Martillac rouge:
Extrem schöne Nase, dunkle Kirschen, Cassis, Karamell. Im Gaumen merkt man aber leider, dass hier zu viel Holz eingesetzt wurde. Wirkt grob und sehr austrocknend. Wird Jahre brauchen bis sich hier Eleganz eingestellt hat und dann wird die Frucht wahrscheinlich schon weg sein. 86 GPoints

Les Carmes Haut Brion:
Ein schöner, eleganter und balancierter Wein. Die Nase diskret nach Cassis und Zwetschgen. Im Gaumen, schlank mit feiner Säure. 89+ GPoints

Malartic Lagraviere rouge:
Sehr ansprechende Nase, spontane sich öffnende Frucht mit süssen Kirschen. Die Struktur balanciert, alles da, aber von nichts zu viel. Ein Topwein für den frühen Genuss! 90 GPoints

Olivier:
Schöne Jugendfrucht. Wilde Kräuter, Kirschen, rohes Fleisch und Teer. Ein bisschen unreine Nase aber sehr interessant. Schöne Säure, dichter Gaumen aber leicht bitter. Hier hätte man wahrscheinlich ein bisschen später lesen sollen. 88 GPoints

Pape Clement rouge:
Wow, hier geht die Post ab! Kirschen, Cassis, Organgenzesten, genial balanciert im Gaumen. Sehr feine und fruchtige Tannine. Wirkt jetzt schon derart fein und delikat, dass ich ein Gals davon getrunken habe. Von mir 93+ GPoints mit Fragezeichen für die Alterungsfähigkeit

Smith Haut Lafitte rouge:
Sehr würzig, dunkle Röstaromatik mit fetter, sehr dunkler Frucht. Leichte Kaffeeanklänge. Im Gaumen nicht die befürchtete Holzorgie, sondern sehr fein, auch hier schon mollig mit feiner Orangennote und schwarzen Kirschen. 93+ GPoints

Beau-Séjour Bécot:
Schöner Merlotduft. Schwarze Kirschen und Pflaumen, ein hauch Heidelbeeren. Im Gaumen fest mit guter Balance. Wirkt klassisch und lang. 92 GPoints

Canon:
Sehr anpsrechend mit mehr Eleganz aber auch weniger Fett als der Beau Sejour. Klassischer St. Emilion mit einem jugendlichen vanilligen Gaumen. 91+ GPoints

Canon la Gaffeliere:
Hmmm, das ist ein Topwein aber wie lange wird er leben können?
Sehr moderne Nase, Pflaumen, Brommbeeren, Cassis, dunkles Brot. Perfektes reifes Merlot Bouquet mit einem extrem polierten Gaumen. 93 GPoints mit ganz grossen Fragezeichen!

Cap de Mourlin:
Frische Merlotnase, Minze und Kräuter, wahrscheinlich früh antrinkbar und sehr gut. 89+ GPoints

Dassault:
Wow, eine pure und geniale Nase. Frische Minze, Kirschen und Cassis. Im Gaumen rassig, mit sehr saftiger Säure, sehr erfrischend! Für mich wieder eine Offenbarung mit guter Struktur für ein gutes Leben! 90 GPoints

Clos Fourtet:
Extrem weich und poliert. Wirkt jetzt schon reif und ist auch extrem modern. Wirkt auch hitzig, überreif. 88 GPoints

Grand Mayne:
Wieder ein Topwein im Glas, Klassische Nase nach Kirschen und Kaffee, dunkles Malz. Bisher der beste St. Emilion und von mir 94 GPoints.

La Couspaude:
Saftige und frische Frucht hier, Brommbeeren und Heidelbeeren. Sehr schön auch im Gaumen. 90 GPoints

La Dominique:
Hier wieder ein männlicher St. Emilion. Extrem schönes Merlot Bouquet mit viel Kräutern durchsetzt. Im Gaumen fest und dicht aber mit feinen Gerbstoffen. 91 GPoints

La Gaffeliere:
Sehr verhaltene Nase. Schon fast königlich diskret. Zeigt wenig dunkle Frucht. Ist momentan verschlossen auch im Gaumen. Wirkt aber fest und dicht und verspricht ein langes Leben. 92+ GPoints

La Tour Figeac:
Dunlke Frucht, wirkt mollig aber nicht klebrig. Dunkles Malz im Gaumen. Schöne Länge! 91 GPoints

Troplong Mondot:
Ich hätte diesen Wein subskribieren müssen. Extrem konzentrierte Nase, dunkle Kirschen, Brommbeeren, Cassis, das Ganze überzogen mit dunklem Karamell. Ist auch im Gaumen sehr konzentriert und modern, ohne dabei an Klasse und Eleganz zu verlieren. Extreme Lakritzenote begleitet sowohl die Nase als auch den leicht salzigen Abgang. Mein Favorit! Und 96++ GPoints

Trottevielle:
Wirkt zehn Klassen tiefer, ist er aber nicht. Wirkt einfach nicht so reif und konzentriert. Kühle Frucht mit leichten Trüffelanklängen und kühle Gaumenausstrahlung. 90 GPoints

Beauregard:
Geniale Merlot Nase, nach Cassis, Brommbeeren und Plaumen. Das Ganze mit einem Aftereight Touch. Sehr schöner Gaumen, schön balanciert, wirkt auch ein bisschen süss und sit auch sehr elegant. 91 GPoints

Clinet:
Sehr schräge Nase, extreme Würzigkeit, die an einem grossen Cabernet Franc Anteil erinnert. Im Gaumen sehr fest und alkoholisch, breit aber nicht klebrig. 90+ (?) GPoints

La Conseillante:
Sehr pure, extrem minzige Nase mit frischen Cassis und Zwetschgen. Im Gaumen tänzerische Leichtigkeit, sehr frisch und pur. Für mich zu leicht und wird wahrscheinlich schnell reifen, ist aber ein hochkomplexer und intellektueller Genuss. Auch hier habe ich mir ein Gläschen gegönnt 94 GPoints

La Pointe:
Maskliner Wein hier. Sehr dichte und dunkle Frucht. Cabernet Anteil??? Im Gaumen fest, ein bisschen burschikos mit einem langen Abgang und evt. Garant für eine laaange Lebensdauer. 90 GPoints

Petit Village:
Sexy Nase! Würzige, malzige rote und dunkle Frucht. Im Gaumen fülllig und minzig, mollig, frisch. Für mich eine Offenbarung. Wird aber evt. schneller reifen als andere. Trotzdem 92+ GPoints

Chasse Spleen:
Diskrete Nase nach Cassis und Kräutern. Im Gaumen sehr elegant mit einem mittleren Abgang. 88 GPoints

Poujeaux:
Animalische Nase, mit dunkler Frucht, Teer und Kuhstall. Auch Pflaumen und Leder. Im Gaumen dicht mit einer ähnlichen Cabernet-Stinker-Aromatik. 90 GPoints??

Ferriere:
Sehr fruchtig, Kirschen und Cassis. Wikrt schlank aber mit einer guten Struktur. Eleganter Abgang. 89+ GPoints

Batailley:
Spontane Frucht, extrem sexy jetzt schon! Kirschen, Cassis, Pflaumen, Kräuter und Vanille. Auch im Gaumen ein Fruchtbündel aber sehr elegant mit einem sehr schönen weichen Abgang nach Orangen, Kirschen und Vanille. Wirkt ein bisschen poliert. 92 GPoints

Clerc Milon:
Männliche dunkle Nase mit klassischcer Cassis und Pflaumenfrucht. Im Gaumen fest, mit leichter Adstringenz. Ein klassischer Pauillac mit einem langen Leben vor sich. 90 GPoints

Armailhac:
Sehr schön in der Nase, blumig, dann Cassis und leichte Röstnoten. Im Gaumen dann dünn und sehr schlank. Hier fehlt das Fett. 88 GPoints

Lynch Bages:
Extrem dunkle und reduktive Nase. Cassis ummamantelt in Minze. Mir persönlich fehlt hier das Sexappeal. Im Gaumen stark adstringierend. Leicht austrocknend. Erinnert an einen 86er mit weniger Fett. 90 GPoints

Pichon Comtesse:
Wow, sehr schöne klassische Nase, mit dunklen und roten Beeren. Cassis, und Pflaumen aber auch Preiselbeeren und Orangen. Im Gaumen der Conseillante aus dem Medoc. Sehr schön balanciert. Kaschmir und Seide gepaart mit Kraft und sehnigen Muskeln. Dazu noch der längste und schönste Abgang des Abends. 96++ GPoints

Gruaud Larose:
Ein schöner Duft, mit Cassis und leichten Zedernanklängen. Im Gaumen fest aber eher auf der schlanken und eleganten Seite. 90 GPoints

Langrange:
Hier wieder mehr Fett, dunkle Kirschen, Heidelbeeren, Cassis und eine schöne Röstaromatik. Sehr schön auch im Gaumen. Wird wahrscheinlich schon früh Freude bereiten, denn der Wein ist glasklar und auch ein bisschen poliert. 91 GPoints

Langoa Barton:
Dunkle Kirschen und Cassis. Wirkt dichter als die anderen St. Julien. Mehr Kirschen auch im Gaumen und hier molliger als der Rest. Dabei aber eine schöne klassische Struktur mit einem kräftigen Abgang. 90 GPoints

Leoville Barton:
Der Langoa mal zwei! Sehr ähnlich von der Aromatik aber hier noch mehr Extrakt, noch mehr Süsse und Aromatik und ein königlicher, männlicher Abgang. Der beste Wein des Abends. 97 GPoints

Saint Pierre:
Wunderschöner minziger Duft nach Cassis und Kirschen. Im Gaumen eine schöne Leichtigkeit aber auch eine feste Struktur und perfekte Rückaromatik. Ein genialer, minziger Abgang. 92++ GPoints

Phelan Segur:
Eine jetzt schon offene, malzige und von Kirschen und Cassis geprägte Nase. Schöne Röstaromatik dahinter. Im Gaumen dann auf der leichteren Seite. Wirkt ein bisschen harmlos, ist aber schön. 89+ GPoints

Zum Schluss noch meine Notizen zu den Sauternes:

Guiraud:
Wirkt sehr dicht und verschlossen. Gibt wenig Preis, ausser einen leichten Honig-Vanille Schimmer mit gelben Früchten. Im Gaumen dann wieder fest, zupackend aber ohne einen Hauch Komplexität zu zeigen. In diesem Stadium 89 GPoints

Nairac:
Extrem pfeffrige, fruchtige Nase. Hier ist die ganze Ladung Bortritys vermischt mit Frucht vorhanden! Im Gaumen pfeffrige Säure und schöne Länge. Ein genialer Sauternes 94 GPoints

La Tour Blanche:
Auch hier schöne Frucht mit malzig süssen Anklängen, Vanille und weisser Pfeffer. Im Gaumen eine starker Mandarinentouch, dahinter Karamell aber sehr frisch. Auch Minze. Schöner langer Abgang. 92 GPoints

Niel Martin ist mit seinen Bewertungen raus...

here we go...

Pauillac:

2008 Aile d’Argent Blanc 87
This has a fresh lemony bouquet, with lime cordial and a little apricot. The palate is fresh on the entry, perhaps lacks some delineation and tautness on the mid-palate, leading to a waxy, Semillon finish. Simple but undeniably delicious. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau d’Armailhac ?
There is just a touch of leanness on the nose, which is quite surprising for d’Armailhac and a second sample in Bordeaux is not different. The palate is medium-bodied with quite sharp acidity, a little disjointed and hard with touches of tobacco and cedar toward the tannic finish. Out of all the 2008s, this is the one that does not want to play ball at the moment. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Batailley 92+
The Batailley 2008 was so impressive out of barrel: a fore-runner for the 2009, and this builds on that promise with a very well defined bouquet with blackberry, pastilles, cedar and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, very well balanced with a succinct balance between austerity and modernity. It has superb definition on the classic finish. Very natural and beautifully focused, this may merit a higher score in the future. Drink 2014-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Clerc-Milon 92+
Lovely nose; well defined with cedar, tar, blackberry leaf and plum. Good lift and vigour. The palate is sweet on the entry, sappy ripe tannins, generous at the moment but with firm structure towards the tobacco-tinged finish. Moderate length, crisp and focused, I think this Clerc-Milon will grow in stature after 2-3 years in bottle. Drink 2014-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Croizet-Bages 84
Unfortunately there is nothing much to write about on the nose, whilst the palate is rather thin and pinched with hard tannins towards the finish. It certainly lacks the vigour and the breeding of its peers. Drink 2011-2017. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Duhart-Milon-Rothschild 90
The nose just screams “Pauillac”: blackberry, cedar, freshly rolled tobacco, a slight austerity but fine clarity. The palate has a slightly smoky entry, foursquare as always. Duhart is always so conservative in its youth, very crisp and stoic towards the finish. Uncompromising on the finish, this is a Duhart for those that relish the quintessential “classic” Claret. Drink 2016-2035. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse 87
The Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2008 has a light, airy bouquet with blackberry, leather, bay leaf and sage. It is little subdued at the moment but it opens nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, a little more density than I expected with good length, very foursquare...a no-frills Grand Puy Ducasse that is better than it showed out of barrel. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste 95
The nose is very fresh, leaping out the glass, with fresh blackberry, raspberry, a touch of gravel and graphite. It has brilliant definition and focus. The palate is tannic on the entry, a masculine Pauillac as always, a little austere but not excessively so. Ripe fresh black fruits, a touch of soy and cedar, vibrant and focused towards the tannic finish with a saline aftertaste that develops more silkiness as it aerates in the glass. Beautiful. Drink 2015-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Haut Bages Liberal 88
The 2008 Haut Bages Liberal has a very fresh, but slightly pinched nose with blackberry, cedar and a touch of pine. Nice lift and expression. The palate displays a sweet entry with very ripe tannins and notes of blackberry, cassis and plum on the fleshy, saturated finish. This is a more modern style of Haut Bages Liberal although side-by-side I prefer the Ferriere this year. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Haut-Batailley 90
This has a taut, tertiary bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, a touch of cedar and fresh mint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little chalky in texture, fresh acidity, quite spicy towards the finish with moderate length. A little foursquare at the moment but there is a pleasant, liquorice-tinged aftertaste. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 97
The Lafite-Rothschild ’08 has a succinct nose, one that takes gentle coaxing from the glass. It offers a mixture of red and black fruits on the nose, touches of graphite, sous-bois and crushed pebbles. Very fine delineation and lift, but linear, does not really “billow” from the glass at the moment. The palate is full-bodied with very fine, succulent tannins; notes of crisp blackberry, cassis and a hint of blueberry, a little fig developing in the glass. The Lafite ’08 has an insistent grip and has beautifully interwoven seam of vanillary new oak. Very long in the mouth, the persistency is sensational: a stupendous effort from Mon. Chevalier and his team. Drink 2014-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Carruades de Lafite 89
The Carruades de Lafite 2008 has a tightly coiled nose that takes some coaxing from the glass. It is floral at first with ripe black fruits, a touch of briary and smoke. Good definition although it needs to engender a little more lift. The palate is tannic on the entry, crisp and slightly leafy at the front of the mouth, the pastille like sweetness towards the back with small dark cherries, blackberry and raspberry leaf. Moderate length. Perhaps just a little abrupt on the finish. Fine. Drink 2011-2018. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Latour 95
Frédéric Engerer describes this as a mixture of the 01, 02 and 04...he might be right. The 2008 Chateau Latour has an intense blackberry, cedar, graphite-scented bouquet that is very tight at first but opening in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with mouth-coating black fruits infused with a touch of liquorice and black plum. The Latour ’08 is underpinned by tensile tannins that lend it a linearity that finally broadens out on the long, persistent finish. Coming back after a few minutes I notice a touch of espresso on the finish. One feels that this could still surprise in a few years…I wonder if this has something up its sleeve? Drink 2014-2035. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Les Forts de Latour 92
The bouquet on the Les Forts de Latour ’08 is very fragrant with entrancing scents of blackberry, wild black plum and a touch of bilberry. The terroir really shows through with touches of cold granite in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine, sturdy tannins: at the moment tense and edge, hints of liquorices round the edges with a core of blackberry and black olive. Still a little aloof, but its breeding is patently obvious. Drink 2013-2025+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Pauillac de Latour 89
The third wine from Château Latour has a fresh wild strawberry and a touch of mulberry on the nose with a touch of cold granite. The palate has a hard entry, very taut at the moment with firm tannins, cedar and blackberry with a touch of crushed stone towards the brittle finish. Very fresh and focused. Fine. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lynch-Bages 92
Juxtaposed against the Pichon-Lalande, the Lynch Bages is far more reticent on the nose with more overt graphite and sous-bois aromas inflecting the fruit. It is tightly coiled at the moment and needs a couple of years to blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with a ferrous entry, firm tannins but a little disjointed and edgy at the moment. Certainly a little awkward now and still quite “strict’ as it was in barrel. I feel that this Lynch Bages should be granted time to prove itself, so for now I will be prudent with my score. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lynch Moussas 88
This has a light, autumnal bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow, cedar and a touch of tobacco. It would benefit from more vigour but nicely defined and natural. This has a fleshier mouth-feel than I expected, more approachable with better fruit concentration, although the finish is a little muffled at the moment. Certainly going in the right direction and it slips down the throat with ease. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 95
The Mouton ’08 has a very tightly coiled bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and cranberry fruit, very fine definition with touches of shellfish and a hint of orange sorbet developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with bright red-berried fruit, great poise and structure with notes of blackberry, cedar, smoke and a twist of citrus lemon on the finish. Very compact at the moment, especially on the finish, but there is patently great potential here and it still has that feminine allure. Drink 2014-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Le Petit Mouton 91
This has a lovely fresh, briary, wild hedgerow, cedar-tinged nose with bright black fruits: dark cherry and boysenberry: lively and playful. The palate is medium-bodied with sturdy, grainy tannins and good acidity. This Le Petit Mouton is fresh and vibrant with a delectable crisp, slightly leafy finish. Very fresh and harmonious, certainly a lovely Deuxieme Vin. Drink 2013-2024. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Pichon-Baron 95
This has a very pure, very “Pauillac” nose with blackberry, graphite and just a faint hint of Hoi Sin in the background. Fine definition, perhaps even a little more restrained than usual. The palate is superb: full-bodied with a great sense of roiling power, good acidity, more masculine than Pichon-Lalande with the flavours expanding across the back palate with hints of liquorice and black plum. Great length – this is a Pichon Baron brimming with ambition and intent. Superb. Drink 2013-2035+

2008 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 96
A modern day classic? I think so, here, the wine transcending the potential it showed in barrel. The Pichon-Lalande has a fragrant, unassuming bouquet with pure blackberry, blueberry and black plum. Well integrated oak here, with subtle cedar and graphite scents developing with time. Good definition. The palate has vibrant, animated entry with fiery red-berried fruits, superb acidity and wonderful harmony, cashmere tannins caressing the mouth. It lingers for an extraordinary amount of time on the back palate with real structure and focus. Hints of black pepper sprinkled on the aftertaste. Brilliant. Drink 2013-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Pontet-Canet 94
The Pontet-Cantet 08 has a rich, almost decadent bouquet with black plum, espresso, vanilla and a touch of coca, unashamedly modern in style but retaining good definition. The palate has very fine grip and backbone, a savoury edge on the entry, touches of white pepper and tobacco dominating the finish that has real persistency. It has a certain ‘gloss’ that I think it will shed over time and it needs to meld together on the finish, but it will reward those that can resist its youthful decadence. Drink 2015-2035. Tasted October 2010.

...und St. Estephe:

2008 Chateau Calon Segur 92
A blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot raised in 85% new oak. The Calon Segur is reticent and tertiary on the nose at first. Tightly wound black fruits, just a tiny hint of spice. Good definition with graphite aromas coming through with a touch of warmth. The palate is has a tight entry but very good concentration, particularly on the dense back-palate. Firm, sinewy tannins here, succulent raspberry, bilberry with a touch of earth, graphite infused Cabernet dominated the finish. This will take a few years to age as Mme. Gasqueton’s wines tend to, but this has great promise. Excellent. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Cos d’Estournel 96
This is a great wine from Jean-Guillaume Prats and tasted alongside the gestating 2009, guess which one I preferred? The 2008 has a wonderful, life-affirming bouquet: very pure and refined, great precision with blackberry, bilberry, briary, a touch of wild hedgerow and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with slightly brittle tannin on the entry, the Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) firmly in the driving seat. Great clarity and focus towards the almost Pauillac like finish soaked in mineralité, this wine is brilliantly realized. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Les Pagodes de Cos 92
The Pagodes was attractive in barrel and just after bottling it retains its promise. Blackberry, graphite and a touch of black tea – very fine definition and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good tension and superb purity. Silky smooth tannins, notes of blackberry, a touch of cassis moving towards more Pauillac notes of cedar and graphite towards the pointed, but refreshing finish. This is a superb Deuxième Vin. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Cos Labory 85
This has a slightly subdued, meaty bouquet with just a touch of brine and singed leather. Moderate definition. The palate is a little pinched on the entry, sharp citrus-black fruits that don’t quite fit with a dry, austere finish. Drink 2011-2017. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau de Pez ?
I am not sure about this bottle – rather musty and green on the nose. The palate is very sharp and abrasive. I hope this is not a representative bottle but it was the last one left I could try. Will try again… Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lafon-Rochet 90
This Saint Estèphe has really developed well in barrel, with a very refined bouquet of blackberry, cedar and a touch of mint that is not complex but graceful. The palate has a chewy entry, quite thick and assertive, bold black fruits with touches of sage and white pepper, good weight on the sinewy finish with black cherries, blackberry and a touch of cedar. Very fine. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Montrose 94
As indicated in my original tasting note, I have always felt that my sample from barrel was not representative. The nose takes some coaxing from the glass, but it eventually, perhaps reluctantly, reveals scents of blackberry, pomegranate, violet and a touch of cedar and fresh fig. Very well defined. The palate is tensile, very tight, fresh acidity underpinning sharp blackberry and bay leaf on the entry. Fine but sturdy tannins, very good persistency, real grip on the finish. This has certainly put on weight during its élevage and it is redolent of a scaled down version of the 1989. Whilst not a top-flight Montrose à la spellbinding 2009, this is still an impressive wine from Jean-Bernard Delmas. Drink 2014-2035. Tasted October 2010.

2008 La Dame de Montrose 88
This has a fragrant, slightly clayey bouquet with touches of black plum, boysenberry and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a little dry and austere on the entry but maintaining its balance. An understated, slightly leafy La Dame for medium-term drinking. Drink 2012-2018. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Phelan-Segur 90
The Phelan has a very fine, slightly leafy bouquet with touches of tar, sandalwood and cedar inflecting the black fruits. Autumnal. The palate has a fresh, well-defined entry with spicy tinged black fruits, cedar and a dash of white pepper. Firm tannins, good backbone here and fine length. This certainly is at the top of my expectations from barrel. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Sociando Mallet 89
Bottled in May cropped at 45hl/ha. The nose is rather closed at first and the fruit seems to be a little subdued by the oak at the moment. Blackberry, freshly tilled soil, vanilla and just a touch of sandalwood. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, chalky tannins, very good acidity, slightly pinched at the moment but should be rectified with time. Tannic, slightly brusque, quite foursquare towards the finish. Fine grip, but it will need 4-5 years cellaring to reach its drinking plateau. Having said that, it needs to flesh out and become less austere. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010

...St. Julien:

2008 Chateau Beychevelle 90
The Beychevelle is a little reticent and quite earthy on the nose, very taut with cedar and sous-bois dominating the profile, but it has very fine lift, becoming floral with aeration. The palate has firm, robust, quite thick tannins, very structure with cedar and pencil-lead infusing the black fruits, very good weight, but lacking the finesse of the 2009. Good length and persistency but a little sharp on the finish. This is still a classy Saint Julien. Drink 2012-2025+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Clos du Marquis 92
The Clos du Marquis is quite closed on the nose, but comes across as polished and harmonious. There are scents of dark cherry and a touch of plum and developing a heady violet perfume with further aeration. The palate is full-bodied with luscious, almost voluptuous tannins, soft and sensual but that belies the structure that lends this Clos du Marquis its backbone. This will be approachable young but should age as Clos du Marquis tends to do...with style. Drink 2013-2025+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 95
The 2008 just surpasses my expectations from barrel. It has great clarity on the airy nose with blackberry, a touch of briary, cedar and graphite. The palate is finely balanced on the entry but then segues into a dense middle with bold, forthright tannins but counterbalanced with ample freshness and acidity. It is ‘classic’ in style, linear but more feminine than masculine, with cedar and a touch of white pepper on the aftertaste. This is a great wine from Bruno Borie, perhaps a little more restrained in style than recent vintages with great breeding and élan. Drink 2014-2035. Tasted October 2010.

2008 La Croix du Beaucaillou 92
This has a tightly would nose: blackcurrant, raspberry leaf, a touch of sage and cedar wood. Very fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, lots of cedar and pine inflecting the ripe red-berried fruit. Very fine balance, quite silky tannins with good persistency towards the tannic finish. This is a well poised La Croix de Beaucaillou, but one that is a little more austere than recent vintages. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Gruaud Larose 90
Personally, I wish the Gruaud Larose ‘08 would muster a little more intensity on the nose. It comes across very tertiary at the moment and it would benefit from greater fruit expression: lots of tobacco and smoke aromas dominating but it unfurls nicely, revealing attractive gamey notes, hints of sage and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, not a heavyweight or even top-tier Gruaud, but nicely balanced and natural, a dash of pepper lending the finish a little pep. This is a decent effort, although it is no match for the 2009. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lagrange 93
The Lagrange has a more fruit-driven nose when compared to the Gruaud Larose with notes of blackberry, wild hedgerow, a touch of wet sand and a gourmand element that may become more pronounced with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a very good sense of cohesion and depth with juicy blackberry and boysenberry infused with pencil shavings and cedar towards the long, masculine finish. Lagrange is so consistent at the moment. Impressive. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lalande-Borie 89
This has a light but agreeable, light, quite feminine bouquet with raspberry leaf, blackberry and a touch of cedar. Nice definition. The palate is medium-bodied with quite chunky, rich tannins, good body here and fresh acidity. Smooth finish with touches of blackcurrant and raspberry, just a little abrupt on the fresh finish. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Langoa Barton 91
The Langoa 08 has a fine, understated, well-defined bouquet with blackberry, cedar, wild hedgerow and a touch of pencil lead, building nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with thick tannins married with great fruit intensity. It does not quite have the precision at the moment, but this could surprise a few people in the future…including myself. Drink 2014-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Leoville Barton 93
At this stage, the Langoa seems to have more harmony than the Léoville-Barton, but it coalesces in the glass to reveal attractive notes of cedar, sandalwood, blackberry and a touch of small dark cherries. The palate is where it is all happening: very fine but firm tannins, great fruit concentration and immense precision. The grip on the finish is superb, just the right marriage between austerity and modernism. Very assured, very dependable, very delicious. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases 94
This has a bloody gorgeous bouquet with sensual ripe black fruits, tobacco, black plum, dried orange peel – all with great definition and sense of panache. The palate is full-bodied with touches of blackberry, tobacco, cedar and burnt toast on the entry. Very well balanced with great depth on the back palate, real persistency here. The finish is not overpowering, very controlled and lacquers the mouth, a surprisingly gentle grip. Perhaps the 2008 will not be a long-term Las-Cases compared to recent vintages, but it is undeniably a classy 2008. Drink 2014-2030.

2008 La Petit Lion 89
The second wine of Las-Cases has a simple light fresh black fruits on the nose with touches of tobacco and burnt toast developing in the glass. The palate has a ripe, rounded entry, fine acidity, nicely focused and balanced with a joyful red berry finish that linger far longer than you might expect. Recommended. Drink 2011-2016. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Leoville Poyferre 92
This is typical Leoville Poyferre, bursting with joyous blackberries and boysenberry on the nose, a lot of oak waiting patiently to be subsumed. The palate is full-bodied with dense tannins, very concentrated but perhaps not quite the same level of precision and tension as the Leoville Barton. Confident and assertive, this is a Poyferre that needs 7-10 years since it has huge grip on the saturated, blueberry-tinged finish. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Saint Pierre 87?
This has a dense, earthy, sous-bois dominated nose that is in need of a little more vigour and fruit intensity. Very introverted at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with sinewy tannins, but I am missing some of the precision and tension exuded by its peers. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Talbot 86
The Talbot has a relatively straightforward bouquet compared to its peers, very tight at the moment and lacking some expression. The tannins are very firm, masculine, with abundant tobacco and sous-bois dominating the finish that needs to be balanced by more fruit. Moderate length. Very foursquare and desperately needing more vigour and youthful zest. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted October 2010.

...Margaux:

2008 Chateau d’Angludet 88
This has a light sous-bois infused nose with touches of blackberry, pencil shaving and cooked meat. Moderate definition. The palate is medium-bodied with good definition, but there is a nagging hardness coming through towards the finish. I am cautiously optimistic and would give it a couple of years to mellow. Drink 2013-. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Brane-Cantenac 90
This never showed well in barrel, but fortunately it is far superior in bottle. Here it has a refined bouquet with good definition: blackberry, cedar, a touch of smoke and violet. The palate has fleshy entry that segues into a more structured mid-palate. Touches of game inflect the broody dark fruit, good depth here and great length, the aftertaste lingering with sage and a touch of bergamot. Fine. Drink 2012-2028. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Cantenac Brown 85
The Cantenac Brown is just a little over-egged on the nose, the oak muffling the fruit concentration. The palate is medium-bodied with good fruit intensity on the entry, quite peppery and somehow redolent of a Margaret River Cabernet towards the finish. Not bad, but foursquare towards the finish, the oak not as subsumed as other Margaux wines. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Dauzac 89
This has a very fine, slightly leafy, cedar-infused blackberry nose with very fine lift. The palate is well defined, fresh as a daisy with superb acidity. Not a complex palate, but great tension and finesse, with dark cherry, blackberry, cedar and a touch of sous-bois on the finish. Not a long-term Dauzac, but well crafted and as I hoped, realizing more elegance now in bottle. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Desmirail 87
A light floral nose with red-berried fruit, touches of sandalwood and embers. Nice definition – quite natural but light. The palate is a little disjointed at the moment, perhaps a little over-egged compared to others, chewy and dense towards the finish that needs just a little more vitality and precision. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Durfort-Vivens 86
This has a light, earthy bouquet that is just a little green around the gills but inoffensive. The palate has a slight hardness on the entry, good acidity and it coalesces nicely towards the sappy, liquorice tinged finish. Fine. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Ferriere 90
One of the surprises in Margaux is how well this Ferriere has turned out. It has red wine gums on the nose with good definition, expanding nicely with aeration to reveal candied orange peel and a touch of violets: fragrant and floral. The palate has fine tannins and very good acidity, fresh and focused with blackberry, cedar and graphite, just a little attenuated towards the finish but nice precision. This is a pretty little thing. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Giscours 90
This has a tame bouquet at first, unwinding nicely with aeration to reveal earthy black fruits struck through with graphite and a touch of sage. The palate is well balanced with a citric thread of acidity on the entry, firm tannins, very focused and more masculine than usual. This is showing better than out of barrel with good persistency on the tobacco-tinged finish and it should improve with bottle age. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Kirwan 88
The Kirwan has a light, almost Pomerol-like bouquet with red-berried fruit, sage, hung game and a touch of cedar. It would benefit from a little more intensity and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a lively entry with pretty dark cherry and cassis fruit, light in style but full of tension and grace. Hopefully the nose will develop more gumption. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Labégorce 88
The Labegorce ’08 has a relatively simple nose with blackberry, smoke, blackberry wine gum and a touch of sandalwood. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a nice grainy texture with cedar and tobacco infusing the solid, but very focused finish. This Margaux is redeemed by its freshness and vitality, though not a long-term prospect. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Lascombes 86
This has a well-defined nose with cranberry, redcurrant and a touch of leather with fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, chewy tannins, red-berried fruit with leather and cedar, dense and lacking a little finesse towards the finish. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Margaux 93
Bottled in early July, the Château Margaux consists of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. It has a delicate bouquet of dark berried fruit, wild strawberry, a touch of cedar: a lesson in clarity more the intensity. Unwinds nicely in the glass though with touches of violet developing. The palate is medium-bodied, taciturn at first, but there is certainly immense precision and focus on the back palate. Filigree tannins as usual, refined and poised on the finish, though not the persistency of say 2009 or 2006 as one would expect. This is a very lovely wine, but not a first class Château Margaux given their impeccable record. Drink 2013-2035. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Pavillon Rouge de Margaux 89
Bottled in June, the Pavillon is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. It has a very natural, almost understated nose with dark berried fruit, a touch of mulberry and crushed stone. Fine delineation. This is a tensile Pavillon, crisp acidity on the entry, slightly hard tannins at the moment, touches of blackberry and raspberry leaf. A little short and pinched on the finish at present, but it should soften with time. Fine. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Marquis de Terme 90
This has a joyful floral bouquet with blackberry wine gums, violet, plum and a touch of cassis. Good definition and well-integrated oak. The palate is well defined with good fruit concentration, vibrant blackberry, boysenberry and cedar, firm structure and backbone towards the focused finish. This is just…delicious! Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Monbrison 83
This is rather reticent on the nose, the fruit subdued and lacking definition. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a saline edge and quite gritty towards the finish that shows better clarity that the aromatics. It needs to coalesce with bottle age but at the moment this is rather underwhelming from a Margaux that can produce great wine. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Palmer 93
This Palmer is very closed on the nose, much more so than Chateau Margaux. Reluctant aromas of black plum, cassis, blackberry pastille, iodine and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with a dense structure, grippy tannins, very persistent Palmer with superb fruit concentration. Tightly knit towards the finish with blackberry, Doris plum and cedar billowing out towards the finish. Very good length but certainly more backward, some graphite notes lingering. Muscular at the moment – this will need time to mellow. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Alter Ego de Palmer 90
This has a ripe, succulent bouquet with notes of black plum, cassis and a touch of briary. Very well integrated oak, more immediate than other 2008s at this early juncture with plush cassis and boysenberry, gaining intensity in the glass. The palate has a rounded texture, an edginess to the tannins which is needed to counterpoise the rounded, sensual fruit. Very cohesive and focused towards the caressing finish that just lacks the length of a great vintage. Luscious. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Prieuré-Lichine 89
This has a fragrant, floral, quintessential Margaux bouquet with fine definition and clarity, touches of espresso developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, very solid with leather, game and cedar inflecting the broody black fruits, leading to a tannic, foursquare, quite dry finish. Very classic in style. Fine. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Rauzan Gassies 89
A light cedar nose with touches of cigar box that would benefit from great fruit concentration. The palate is medium-bodied and shows greater fruit intensity than the nose suggests, although it needs more definition and the finish is just a little monolithic, as if it has spent a couple of months too long in oak and therefore not quite reaching the potential I hoped in barrel. But still a respectable wine for the vintage. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Rauzan Segla 92
The Rauzan Segla 2008 has good fruit concentration on the nose with broody black fruits, boysenberry and dark plum, cedar and sous-bois developing more with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, rather dry tannins, a Margaux that has gone into its shell. Very structured and foursquare towards the graphite-struck finish. Biding its time most certainly, but I feel it could turn a corner at some point its evolution and surprise a few people. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Siran 86
Typical of Siran’s style, this is fruit-forward on the nose with mulberry, blackberry and cedar, but perhaps a little more toned down compared to recent vintages. The palate has thick chewy tannins, a little blockbuster in style and the finish is a little sweet and obvious. But it has a nice purity, if not the breeding of sense of terroir. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau de Tertre 92
This has a light but perfumed bouquet with blackberry, raspberry leaf and violets – good definition although Giscours has a touch more vigour. The palate has a rounded, sensual texture with ripe, rounded tannins: very pure towards the finish with blackberry, cassis and black plum, nicely defined on the finish. One of the finest wines from du Tertre in recent years. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

Medoc:

2008 Chateau Belgrave 87
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This is very refined on the nose with blackberry cedar and a touch of bay leaf: natural and one might say, well mannered. The palate is simple with chewy red-fruits, cedar and tobacco, just a touch of rawness towards the finish but a decent luncheon claret. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau de Camensac 87
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This is a little subdued on the nose compared to others, whilst the palate is full-bodied with rather furry tannins, lacking some definition and focus on the finish. Rounded and smooth in texture, but it needs more vivacity. Conservative and missing a little joie-de-vivre. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Cantemerle 88
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a light, smoky, sous-bois nose with moderate definition, but needing more fruit intensity. A saline accent develops with time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, sappy core of black fruits with good depth on the finish. The palate is far better than the aromatics at the moment, so hopefully this will improve. Drink 2011-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Citran 86
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The nose has good fruit intensity with cranberry, tobacco and pencil shavings. Quite natural and refined. The palate has a chewy entry with ripe red-berried fruits, cedar and tobacco, good cohesion on the back-palate with a thick, persistent boysenberry and black pepper finish. Good matière here, if not the breeding. Drink 2013-2022. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Coufran 86
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. Light pencil shaving on the nose, but well defined and lifted, with a saline touch. The palate has a slight hardness on the entry, firm tannins, very masculine with a robust finish that is a little short. Packs a punch but it needs more finesse. Drink 2013-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 La Goulée 87
Dark berried fruit, tealeaf and a touch of coca on the nose, but there is a touch of greenness just off-stage. The palate has some hard tannins on the entry, a pepperiness that is quite attractive although the finish is a little raw and disjointed at the moment. It comes together in the glass, quite classic in style, this should improve in bottle over the next couple of years. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau de Lamarque 90
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This is one of the best wines that I have encountered from this estate in recent years. It is very well defined on the nose with joyous blackberry, boysenberry and wild hedgerow and a touch of cedar. The palate is very well defined with good fruit concentration, a nice gamey element towards the structured, persistent finish that nods towards the Rhône. There is so much character within this wine. Excellent. Drink 2011-2025+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Potensac 89
Tasted at Château Léoville Las-Cases. This has improved from its barrel showing, the nose is very Pauillac in style with touches of tobacco, mint and blackcurrant. Good lift and focus, expanding nicely in the glass. The palate has a ripe, supple entry, those tannin lay in the background at first, but make their presence felt towards the finish. The oak is a little disjointed at the moment, but there is fine definition and good persistency. I would afford this Potensac 3-4 years to coalesce because I think it could be a dark horse. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chapelle de Pontensac 86
Tasted at Château Léoville Las-Cases. This has a fragrant bouquet with black cherries, blueberry and a touch of vanilla. Good definition and none of the greenness occasionally found in this deuxième Vin, though it could do with a little more clarity. The palate has a chewy entry, good density, sappy black fruits with a touch of boysenberry. It needs to lighten up a little on the finish but fine. Drink 2011-2017. Tasted October 2010.

Pessac/Graves:

2008 Chateau de Chantegrive 83
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a light, rather mushroom-scented nose, a little dusty with touches of undergrowth. The palate is sharp and slightly bitter on the entry, the tannins raw and attenuated towards the finish. Average. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Ferrande 82
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a simple but well-defined nose with notes of underbrush, graphite, broody black fruits. The palate is medium-bodied, raw on the entry with slightly bitter tannins, leading to a dry austere finish. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Rahoul 82
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The Rahoul ’08 has a light, leafy nose that desperately needs more fruit concentration. The palate is a little pinched and sharp on the entry, abrasive tannins and slightly bitter towards the finish. Average. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Bouscaut 81
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The nose is rather subdued at the moment, touches of mint and wild heather developing with aeration, but never gaining sufficient intensity to convince. The palate has a severe, dry entry with hard tannins and a very sharp, astringent finish. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Carbonnieux 87
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a fragrant nose with blackberry, raspberry leaf and a touch of violet. Nice definition with a touch of Hoi Sin developing. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of hardness on the entry, but good structure and tension on rather astringent finish. This is a tensile Carbonnieux but it shows freshness and vigour. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Domaine de Chevalier 92
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The Domaine de Chevalier has a very subtle nose: not one to grab you by the lapels, but it unwinds beautifully to reveal leather, blackberry, wild hedgerow and even a hint of garrigues. Soft entry but building nicely with fine tannins, a touch of white pepper on the sprightly, tertiary finish. Olivier Bernard has produced an agreeably austere Domaine de Chevalier that is full of breeding. Excellent. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau de Fieuzal 90+
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a fresh, fragrant nose with touches of rose petal inflecting the fresh raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Good definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with a savoury entry, the tannins just a little furry and ill-defined at the moment, but there is great depth with a lovely meat finish (as if there is more Cabernet Franc in the wine.) A little brutish at the moment but it should mellow with 4-5 years bottle age. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau de France 88
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This is a little anonymous on the nose with blackberry leaf and a touch of tomato vine. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, a lot of extract here, leading to a slightly astringent finish. But its intentions are good and it has fine length. This will probably improve with another 2-3 years bottle age. Drink 2012-2024. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Haut Bailly 93
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. Veronique Sanders has conjured up a magnificent bouquet for her 2008: very floral and almost Margaux-like in style, with blackberry, soy, bergamot and cedar. There is a beguiling sense of restraint and composure. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a saline touch on the entry, just a touch of black pepper enlivening the structured, focused, quite masculine finish with sous-bois dominating the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2013-2030+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Haut-Bergey 90
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The Haut-Bergey Rouge is very reticent on the nose, dominated by sous-bois and cedar aromas more than the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, redcurrant and cedar, good structure, masculine in a similar way to Haut-Bailly, with a foursquare but fresh, enticing off-dry finish. This is conservative for Haut-Bergey, but is certainly well crafted. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc 93
Tasted at Château La Mission Haut-Brion. I find that the Haut-Brion Blanc does not quite have the same character as the Laville. It has more ‘obvious’ citrus aromas, tightly contained at the moment with the Sauvignon Blanc in the driving seat, yet it opens with aeration with lilting lime cordial scents and a touch of passion fruit. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity, bright and citrus with great tension towards the honeysuckle tinged finish. Very succinct, very alluring and improving all the time in the glass. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Haut-Brion 96
Tasted at Château La Mission Haut-Brion. The Haut-Brion 2008 has a delightful, quite feminine nose with pure blackberry, briary, crushed stones, scents of crushed violet and fresh black olive. Superb definition. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grippy tannins, more matière than La Mission: very harmonious, fresh and vibrant. This is a ‘strict’, ‘classic’ Haut Brion with cedar, sous-bois and more graphite and bay leaf towards the finish that is very assured, lingering long in the mouth. The tannins will need several years to soften, yet this is a very appealing Haut-Brion destined to be unfairly over-shadowed by the 2009. Drink 2016-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Le Clarence du Haut-Brion 88
Tasted at Château La Mission Haut-Brion. I prefer the nose on the Clarence to the Chapelle: more fruit intensity with dark berries, tar, a touch of “potter’s wheel” clay but there is good definition here. The palate has improved since its primeur showing: medium-bodied with firm, rounded tannins: dark berried fruit, cedar, graphite, good weight on the dry, austere finish and fine length. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion 89
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. I was much too harsh on the Larrivet Haut-Brion at birth. In bottle, it has a ripe, joyful bouquet with blackberry, bay leaf and a touch of cedar, well defined with an almost Pauillac like personality. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, a savoury edge, a salty tang coming through on the back palate. Good fruit intensity here although a little disjointed. Drink 2013-2025. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Laville Haut-Brion Blanc 95
Tasted at Château La Mission Haut-Brion. The Laville ’08 has a vibrant lemon curd, lime grapefruit and persimmon scented bouquet with fine definition and vibrancy. The palate has a striking entry: superb acidity, so fresh and vibrant with a toffee-ish element in the background. Very Burgundian, very ‘Meursault Genevrières’. Real fatness here, long and persistent with hints of hazelnut on the finish. Wonderful. Drink 2013-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau La Louvière 89
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The La Louvière ‘08 has a light but very focused with blackberry, raspberry and a touch of black plum, complemented by leather and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, masculine but fresh with tart red cherries, quite grainy towards the finish with a dash of white pepper on the aftertaste. Commendable. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Malartic-Lagravière 93
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a fragrant bouquet with blackberry leaf, raspberry, small dark cherries, cedar and a touch of black olive. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine silky tannins, very focused and fresh with succulent ripe black fruits towards the tensile finish. This is excellent: beautifully crafted with no rough edges. I said that it may merit a high score after bottling…and it does. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 95
Tasted at Château La Mission Haut-Brion. The La Mission has a complex nose: smoky at firs with touches of sous-bois, thyme, a little sage and earth. Quite austere and masculine compared to other vintages with just a hint of mulberry developing in the glass that becomes more lifted after 10 minutes, more graphite aromas coming through and crushed pebble. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, stoic tannins on the entry. A stately La Mission, foursquare and relatively conservative, just a little hardness at the moment but that will mellow with time. Dry and slightly leafy on the finish with sous-bois, a touch of thyme and pencil shavings: classic La Mission. Drink 2016-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 90
Tasted at Château La Mission Haut-Brion. This has a slightly sullen bouquet at the moment with light blackberry and wild hedgerow and red cherry, just missing a little lift and vigour at first but slowly unfurling. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, lots of sous-bois on the entry, good acidity, crisp, light and focused towards the tannic finish that is just a little hard at the moment. Very fine. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Olivier 89+
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The Olivier ’08 has a tightly coiled bouquet that is takes time to reveal some hot gravel/blackberry aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, nicely balanced with a pleasant, unpretentious earthy finish. Once that nose awakes, this will be a lovely Pessac, because the finish is so harmonious and alluring. Drink 2013-2025+ Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Pape-Clément 94
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. The Pape-Clement has an intense lifted blackberry, blueberry, black olive and cassis-scented bouquet that wafts from the glass. No earthiness or austerity here. The full-bodied, almost sinewy palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, intense blackberry, raspberry and boysenberry flavours mingling with cedar and a touch of mint, lending it a Pauillac-like personality. This is an exquisitely crafted Pape-Clement. Drink 2012-2040. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Pique Caillou 86
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has an earthy nose with dusty black fruits, autumn leaves and a touch of woodland. The palate is rounded and very supple on the entry, but then some very dry tannins kick in, leaving the finish a little attenuated. It may gain more harmony with bottle age but at the moment it is at an awkward stage. Drink 2012-2020. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte 94
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This has a gorgeous, ripe, seductive bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, black plum and a touch of vanilla. There is still some oak to be subsumed here, but it will be worth the wait. The palate is very polished with smooth supple tannins, very focused and harmonious, the structure just showing its firmness towards the finish. This is a multi-layered Pessac of the top order. Drink 2013-2030. Tasted October 2010.

2008 Chateau La Tour Martillac ?
Tasted at the UGC 2008 tasting in London. This is slightly closed on the nose and rather dwarfed by the superb Malartic Lagraviere’08. The palate is not showing so well: rather disjointed and lean at the moment, lacking flesh and vigour towards the slightly shrill finish. I am sure this will improve in bottle, but at the moment it is out of sorts. Tasted October 2010.