hallo
ich bin neu hier (vom taw übersiedelt)
neil martin hat heute die "left banks" in der flasche bewertet -hier die notizen als mein "einstandsgeschenk"
:
Saint Estephe
2009 Chateau Calon-Segur 93
Tasted at the château. The Calon-Segur is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot raised entirely in new oak. It really does have a delightful bouquet, just a touch of reduction at first but that blow away: ripe blackberry, graphite and tobacco with great definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, great fruit concentration: blackberry, raspberry interlaced with cedar and a touch of mint. This is a more “Pauillac”-like Calon-Segur this year. Very composed towards the finish with wild strawberry and minerals lingering. This may merit I higher score. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Capbern-Gasqueton 91
Tasted at the château. A blend 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot raised in 50% new oak and 50% one-year old barrels. The Capbern-Gasqueton 2009 has a very precise bouquet with ample red fruits: wild strawberry and raspberry with subtle earth and liquorice notes underneath and beginning to rise to the surface with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with good fruit concentration, slightly chalky tannins at this stage, good tension and mineralité coming through towards the finish with blacker fruits, one again with a hint of liquorice. Nice length and persistency. Great value + great wine = happy customer. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Cos d’Estournel 90
Tasted at the château and later in Hong Kong with consistent notes. The Grand Vin has retained that exotic, lush, generous bouquet with very ripe dark berried fruits intermingling with dark chocolate and a touch of espresso. Moderate definition: certainly the ’08 and ’10 has more precision. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins, very intense dark fruits intermingling with mocha and dark chocolate. Firm grip, still New World in style whilst the spherical finish is missing a little tension. This is a massive Cos d’Estournel, but one denuded of typicité and sophistication. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Les Pagodes de Cos 87
Tasted at the château. The 2009 has a lifted floral bouquet with notes of blackberry, crushed violets, crushed stone and a touch of cassis. Good definition and quite tertiary. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, very good weight, a little drier and more reserved than I was expected with a very tight, tannic, liquorice-tinged finish. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Cos Labory 86
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Cos-Labory ’09 has a rather lightweight, reticent bouquet with undergrowth and dried leather quite prominent. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite harmonious and refined towards the finish but not making a deep impression. I find this rather ephemeral for the vintage. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Beausejour 86
Tasted at Château Pichon-Lalande. To be honest, I find this bouquet a little simplistic compared to say, Capbern-Gasqueton tasted in the prior appointment. A little muted at the moment. The palate has quite a spicy opening, a firm structure, a little “chunky” on the mid palate with a tannic, masculine finish that retains a little of the astringency it showed out of barrel. Not bad, but it needs to find more refinement. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Laffitte Carcasset 90
This Cru Bourgeois ’09 has an archetypal tertiary bouquet that is subdued at first but opens nicely with aeration, although never aspires to be a powerful or showy bouquet. The palate is sweet and rounded on the entry, caressing in the mouth with good acidity and a gentle glide to a very satisfying, quite fleshy fresh strawberry finish. Lovely. Bravo! Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lafon Rochet 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Lafon-Rochet has a lifted, very pure bouquet with vibrant red fruits, cassis, apricot sorbet and a touch of spice. Good definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good depth and substance here with a beautifully composed, almost feminine finish imbued with a silky texture. Not quite the length of the top Saint Estephe wines, but an accomplished wine full of personality from Basile Tesseron. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Montrose 96
Tasted at the château. What a beautiful nose on the 2009 Montrose: wonderful delineation and tautness, extremely well focused, superb mineralité as if a little crushed stone has been sprinkled into the blend. The palate is medium bodied and very taut. This is far more masculine than Cos d’Estournel, more taciturn perhaps with a saline tang towards the finish. There is something a little estuarine...brine perhaps, a little seaweed. Very composed and cerebral but it will need serious cellaring. Tasted September 2011.
2009 La Dame de Montrose 90
Tasted at the château. The La Dame de Montrose 2009 has a light but very pure nose with dark brambly fruit, cedar and a touch of dried orange peel. Not a complex bouquet but it has good lift. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy texture on the entry. Moderate acidity, which perhaps could have been a little higher with a touch of austerity on the finish. This should reward those who cellar for another 2-3 years. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Les Ormes de Pez is a little taciturn on the nose, perhaps due to its recent bottling, struggling to rustle up blackberry, tar and cedar aromas. They will evolve with time. The palate is medium-bodied and packed full of black, tarry fruit. Good acidity and composed towards the finish, although it needs to develop that elusive element...a personality. Wait and see. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau de Pez 91
Tasted at Chateau Pichon-Lalande. The Chateau de Pez has a very tight bouquet with blackberry, cassis and a touch of crushed stone, certainly demonstrated more breeding that the Haut-Beausejour ’09 at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, racy acidity, red rather than black fruits (wild strawberry and a touch of raspberry.) Nicely focused towards the finish, perhaps more like Montrose in style in terms of its clarity and poise. This is very fine. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Phelan Ségur 87?
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. I must say, this is disappointing on the nose which got out the wrong side of bed this morning. Touches of cassis and blackberry wine-gums, but it is missing some intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, but lacking weight and breadth on the finish. I was expecting more and perhaps it just needs another 12 months in bottle. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande 92
Tasted at Château Montrose, the 2009 has a ripe bouquet with brambly dark fruits, a hint of dark chocolate, graphite and sous-bois coming from the 7% Petit Verdot. The palate has good cohesion and certainly a lot more substance than the Second Wine. Firm, quite grippy tannins, very nice cohesion and focus towards the finish when the Cabernet dominates the Merlot despite it being a lower percentage of the blend (42%.) This is a great wine from Montrose’s “little sister”. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Tronquoy de Sainte-Anne 87
Tasted at Château Montrose, the 2009 Chateau Tronquoy de Sainte-Anne has a slightly savoury, earthy bouquet with fine definition with hints of bell pepper in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, a little raw on the entry and angular at the moment, missing just a little weight towards the finish but a lot of freshness here. Fine. Tasted October 2011.
Pauillac
2009 Château d’Armailhac 92
Tasted at Château Mouton-Rothschild. The d’Armailhac 2009 has a gorgeous, voluptuous bouquet with black cherries, cassis and a touch of oyster shell. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, firm tannins, gentle but insistent grip with touches of graphite and sous-bois towards the composed, minerally finish. There is a little more linearity compared to previous vintages – but very stylish and a little more “classic” in style. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Château Batailley 94
Tasted at the château. The Batailley was great out of barrel and is great in bottle. The nose has superb precision, not immensely powerful but very refined and focused, redolent of its neighbour Grand Puy Lacoste. The palate is very composed with succulent tannins, very refined with a spicy, vibrant finish that is filled with joy. Excellent. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Croizet-Bages 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is a little austere at first but well defined with a slight metallic scent. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, foursquare with touches of tobacco and graphite, with a composed, very classic finish that might not stand out in a blind tasting, but is well crafted and has a very “natural” composure. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Clerc Milon 91+
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London and later at Mouton-Rothschild. The Clerc Milon 2009 has a slightly reserved nose at first, taking time to open up, but fresh and lively and driven by the Merlot (44% of the blend.) I would like more expression of its terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy, sappy tannins, quite “thick” in the mouth with a concentrated finish. It is a little brusque at the moment and does not quite contain the harmony of the d’Armailhac, but I am sure it will improve as there is certainly great length. Broody, introspective but fascinating. Long-term Clerc-Milon. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Château Duhart-Milon 93
This is a very impressive Duhart-Milon that is often overlooked with all the hoopla over Lafite. This is one of the most expressive young Duhart-Milons I have encountered with freshness and vitality on the nose: cedar and graphite lifting off with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with tightly-coiled tannins, lovely symmetry with great persistency towards the finish. I think the Merlot component really had a field day in 2009, countervailing Duhart’s typical austerity. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 88
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is a little simple with blackberry wine-gums, tobacco and a touch of undergrowth. It needs more intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, lacking a little cohesion with a slightly austere finish that is out of synch with the style of the vintage. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 95
Tasted at the château. The Grand Puy Lacoste 2009 has a precise nose, very minerally, subtle floral notes, wild hedgerow and crushed stone. The fruit has ebbed away at the moment but it will come back. The palate is just wonderful, very precise with wonderful mineralité. Very fresh and tense, wonderful clarity towards the finish. This is a slightly more feminine Grand Puy Lacoste and merit a higher score further down the line. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Bages Libéral 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The HBL has a little more intensity on the nose than the Fieuzal, sous-bois, a touch of cigar box and cedar with a hint of black cherries and blackberry. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of cassis and menthol on the entry, lithe in the mouth with a simple but sappy finish. This is a distinctive Pauillac, perhaps just a little rustic and missing the persistency of the top Pauillac wines, but very appealing. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Batailley 92+
Tasted at Château Grand Puy Lacoste. The nose is quite closed at the moment. Good definition, ripe blackfruits, earthy almost clayey at the moment. Whilst the aromatics are a little unsettled after bottling, the palate shows good structure with a slight saline touch on the entry. Chalky tannins, not quite in synch with the fruit at the moment although that will come in time. Good potential, but afford this 3-4 years to coalesce in bottle. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 97
The Lafite-Rothschild 2009 is a dark, limpid purple colour. The nose is very closed and so I jabber with Charles Chevalier for ten minutes before returning and…well, not much more…but one can sense the intensity that bubbling under like a smoking volcano: blackberry, vitamin, graphite and a touch of black olive. The palate is medium-bodied but with bold tannins, perhaps unusually expressing more weight than Latour at this juncture although that could change. It has beguiling intensity and focus with great length and persistency, leading to a masculine, grippy finish that says: bugger off and don’t come back for 10-15 years…or else. Exceptionally fine. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Carruades de Lafite 89
The Carruades de Lafite has a deep garnet/purple hue. It is more approachable than the Grand Vin, with scents of blackberry, tar, graphite and a touch of ink. The palate has quite stemmy and foursquare, not a complex Carruades and I feel just a little short on the finish. I much prefer the Duhart this year. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Latour 97
Tasted at the château. Frédéric Engerer told me that the 2009 had a comparatively long fermentation of up to two weeks. It delivers a show-stopping bouquet: classic seductive Pauillac with ebullient black fruits infused with graphite, crushed stone, pencil box, cedar and a touch of mint. With aeration there is a suggestion of something more exotic...wild honey or apricot blossom. The palate is full-bodied with supple but powerful tannins, beautifully integrated oak, perhaps a little edgier thanks to its redoubtable tannic finish. Majestic. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Les Forts de Latour 93
Tasted at the château. The Les Forts de Latour has a very pure, almost Burgundian nose with raspberry, Morello cherry and a touch of dark chocolate. The palate is symmetrical, supremely well focused with hints of liquorice and mulberry. Very pure, the mineralité cloaked by the primacy of the fruit with graphite on the aftertaste. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Pauillac de Latour 90
Tasted at the château. The Pauillac de Latour has good concentration on the nose with dark berries, mocha, cranberry and raspberry fruit with fine definition. Fine structure, slightly chalky tannins, crisp and dry on the graphite tinged finish with good length. This may be released before the 2008 and it is well worth picking up. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lynch Bages 95
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru and then in Hong Kong. The Lynch Bages 2009 is quite backwards on the nose, taking time to open up with blackberry, cedar and graphite developing, but remaining tightly coiled. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, more approachable than I was anticipating with supple, silky tannins. Good acidity, although I would like to see more structure on the finish. Very fine and classical, with an unerring sense of symmetry. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lynch-Moussas 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru. The nose is very classic with touches of tobacco, cedar and a little undergrowth, missing a little intensity but focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of hardness on the entry, but showing fine grip towards the finish. This is very fine. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 97
Tasted at the château, the Mouton ’09 is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, one of the highest Cabernet components (until 2010!) Coming straight after Latour 2009, the Mouton is a little more bashful on the nose and demands coaxing, but it is well worth biding your time and letting it blossom in the glass. Blackberry, raspberry, cold wet limestone and a faint touch of apricot blossom in the background. Very well defined, elegant and composed aromatic profile. The palate is dense and full-bodied with beautifully composed tannins, a touch more opulent and perhaps spicier than the Latour, fanning out beautifully to a very complex finish with blackberry, cassis, charcoal, graphite and sous-bois. Superb persistency – incredible length. Outstanding…and it comes with a spellbinding Anish Kapoor label. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Le Petit Mouton 90
A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc raised in 60% new oak. The Le Petit Mouton 2009 has a very classic nose with black fruits, sous-bois, cedar and a touch of black pepper. Perhaps it is a little subdued this morning? The palate is very well balanced, elegant, a little edgy and drier that others I have tasted, but it has that elusive element of “personality” on the finish that makes me warm to it. I think the Cabernet Franc is very expressive here. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Pichon Baron 96
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru and then in Hong Kong. The Pichon Baron 2009 has wonderful freshness and lift on the nose: pure black fruits interlaced with cedar and graphite, Cabernet in full force. The palate has a sorbet-like freshness on the entry and then the firm tannins take over. Great weight and structure but very composed and focused towards the finish. Outstanding yet again Mr. Seely. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 95
Tasted at the château, the Pichon-Lalande 2009 has a taciturn nose that demands coaxing from the glass. The Cabernet Sauvignon that begins to open offering blackberry, graphite, freshly rolled tobacco and a touch of bay leaf. The palate is defined by its super-fine tannins and wonderful tension, a tangible symmetry that is reminiscent of the 1996. There is citric thread of acidity that lends the 2009 so much vivacity. It is extremely pure with blackberry, cedar and just a touch of pepper, firm grip on the finish and great persistency. This is a Pauillac to be reckoned with. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Reserve de la Comtesse 91
The 2009 Reserve de la Comtesse has an intriguing bouquet with touches of undergrowth and a hint of liquorice underneath those ripe black fruits. The oak sticks out a little at the moment but it will integrate with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of soy on the entry. It fans out nicely across the mid-palate, the Merlot very expressive at the moment with a dash of white pepper towards the cohesive finish. Nice length and posture. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Tour Sieujean 90
This is a great little Pauillac Cru Bourgeois that impressed me with their 2010 out of barrel. The 2009 is also worthy of attention. It has a very composed bouquet of black plum, blackberry and a touch of mint that is well defined but not complex. The palate is well balanced with succulent ripe sweet black fruit counterbalanced by nice grippy, dry tannins on the finish. I probably just prefer the 2010, but this is still a very commendable wine for the vintage. Tasted December 2011.
Saint Julien
2009 Chateau Beychevelle 94
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Beychevelle 2009 has a beautiful bouquet with vibrant blackberry, wild hedgerow and minerals with a touch of sea-salt. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannins, a little compact at the moment but full of freshness. Crisp and lively, I feel the Beychevelle 2009 will close down for a few years before reopening. Certainly this continues a splendid run of form under Philippe Blanc. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Branaire Ducru 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Branaire Ducru has a relatively showy, almost exotic bouquet with fine delineation but missing a little focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a mocha-tinged entry, fine tannins, showing more harmony than the nose with a refined, mocha-tinged finish. Fine. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Clos du Marquis 94
Tasted at Chateau Leoville Las-Cases. The Clos du Marquis 2009 has a wonderful vibrant, floral bouquet packed full of crushed violets, a touch of cassis, blueberry and blackberry jam all with fine definition. Opulent and ravishing. The palate has a silky smooth entry, very fine velvety tannins that belie that tannic backbone underneath. This is a serious Saint Julien with great persistency on the finish. Superb. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 96
Tasted at the chateau. I was unsure whether Bruno Borie was capable of meeting the standards expected from this name, but in fact, since he took over, Ducru has stepped up a level. The 2009 has a very intense bouquet with fine delineation with blackberry, cassis, a hint of liquorices and crushed stone. The palate has a very pure entry with blackberry, small black cherries and boysenberry with very well integrated new oak. There is a fine thread of acidity and just a little prickle of alcohol right on the precocious finish. This is a very intense Ducru Beaucaillou that is built for the long-term. Tasted November 2011.
2009 La Croix de Beaucaillou 94
Tasted at the chateau his is rapidly becoming one of the go-to Deuxieme Vins. The 2009 has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, cedar, a touch of cassis and wild mint with very fine delineation, much more composed than during its primeur showing. The palate is very well made with silky smooth tannins, a fine thread of acidity and a foursquare, tensile finish. Very tight, quite Pauillac-like similar to the Lalande-Borie. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Gloria 95
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. This may well be the finest Gloria ever made. I love the purity and mineralité on the nose of this Gloria: so expressive and vibrant, immense clarity and precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, suave and sophisticated with a wonderful composed, precise finish that lingers long in the mouth. Top class. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Gruaud Larose 95
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Gruaud ’09 has a splendid nose instantly seduces the senses: wonderful delineation with crisp blackberry, wild hedgerow, cigar box and graphite. Very composed and focused. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with tensile tannins, superb balanced and great precision on the finish. One of the most sophisticated Gruaud Larose wines in recent years. Better than my high expectations. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Lagrange 95
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Lagrange 2009 has an earthy, slightly introverted nose at the moment although it opens ajar with aeration with hints of lavender and crushed flower. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, citrus entry, great delineation and a wonderful build of flavours on the mouth, a subtle crescendo as it were. This is so very refined and classy. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Lalande Borie 91
Tasted at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou. The 2009 has a crisp fresh blackberry, mint-tinged nose that lends it an almost Pauillac-like persona. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent, quite weight entry with thick chewy tannins. Not a Saint Julien with finesse: this is more broad-shouldered with the tannic backbone dominating the grainy foursquare finish. I think this should age very well. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Langoa Barton 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. Initially, I was just looking for a little more animation and joie-de-vivre on the nose of the Langoa ’09, yet undeniably is boasts fine delineation and is very pure. I am sure this will evolve beautifully with time. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, great purity, very fine cohesion. Indeed, the palate is more vivacious than the nose suggests and though I would like a little more weight on the finish, the bottom line is that it is delicious. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Leoville-Barton 94
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Leoville Barton 2009 has more intensity and complexity on the nose than the Langoa, with hints of cedar and cigar box in the background. Mellow and natural. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, great weight and composure in the mouth with a supple, rounded, tobacco-tinged finish that lingers seductively. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases 97
Tasted at the chateau, the Leoville-Lascases 2009 has a complex bouquet with macerated black cherries, black truffle, sorbet-like fresh fruits that render this quite feminine and seductive. Certainly not a standoff-ish Las-Cases. The palate has silky smooth, velvety tannins that lulls you in at the front of the mouth and than fans out beautifully towards the almost exotic finish. Yet there remains great delineation and poise, the finish remaining more than a minute in the mouth. Superb. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Le Petit Lion 88
The Le Petit Lion has ripe blackberry and raspberry leaf on the nose with touches of sous-bois and cedar. There is just a touch of terracotta in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, straightforward juicy black fruits with citrus lemon on the sharp, fresh finish. Fine. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Leoville Poyferre 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. Didier Cuvelier’s 2009 has a rich, chocolate and mocha-tinged bouquet that just soars from the glass. There is a good deal of extraction here, perhaps denuding a little precision. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins, leaning on that acidity to maintain balance, but great focus and decadence towards the spice-tinged finish that cuts away just a little quickly. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Saint Pierre 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Saint Pierre 2009 has good intensity on the nose, certainly more expressive than out of barrel with blackberry, cedar and a touch of sous-bois, though it does not have the precision of the Gloria. The palate is medium-bodied with good acidity, nice tension although missing a little breadth on the tight, linear finish. Stylish though, and probably good value. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Talbot 88
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Talbot 2009 has a well defined, quite earthy nose with blackberry and a touch of sous-bois. It could do with more fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, missing a little cohesion on the mid-palate with a rather austere finish. Tasted October 2011.
Margaux
2009 Chateau d’Angludet 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The d’Angludet 2009 has a slightly reticent nose that demands coaxing from the glass, but it opens nicely with some pure blackberry, raspberry and a touch of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, silky smooth and somehow reminding me of a New Zealand Cabernet! Harmonious and refined on the finish, this is a delicious 2009 Margaux. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Brane-Cantenac 93+
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. A typical Brane-Cantenac on the nose: introverted, a little herbaceous, composed, timid but beautifully composed. Not a show-stopper, but then again, Brane-Cantenac never is. With further aeration there is just a touch of black tea. The palate is very refined with a slight greenness on the entry, firm in the mouth with tertiary tannins, long on the finish with just a touch of austerity. Subtle bell pepper notes decorating the finish. I think the 2010 will prove to be the better wine, but this is very pleasing and it seems to grow with each sip. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Cantenac Brown 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. This comes across as a little over-extracted on the nose and it consequently lacks some delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and harmonious, supple toasty tannins, improving towards the finish that shows better definition than the nose suggests. I would like to re-assess this is a year and see if the aromatics improve. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Dauzac 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Dauzac 2009 has a “ravishing” nose with cassis, blackberry, fig and crush violets with fine delineation and lift. The palate is fresh and vibrant with good fruit intensity, firm tannins and a touch of savouriness towards the long, poised finish. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Desmirail 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Desmirail ‘09 has a lovely, very pure Margaux bouquet with touches of crushed violet and pure black cherry mixing with blackberry and wild hedgerow. Natural and composed. The palate is medium-bodied with a mocha-tinged entry, good weight and very fine tannins, focused and fresh as a daisy towards the finish. Bon vin! Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Durfort-Vivens ?
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 is missing some intensity and harmony on the nose with grassy notes instead of the sensual fruit that its peers show. The palate is better, although there is a touch of greenness on the finish. Perplexing. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Ferriere 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 Ferriere has a slight leafiness on the nose, earthy at first but opening with time. The palate is smooth on the entry but it is just missing a little weight in the middle. Very supple on the finish, but perhaps not a long-term Margaux. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Giscours 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Giscours 2009 has a rounded, generous bouquet with dark berries, a touch of baked gingerbread and savoury fruit. There is a gourmand quality to this Margaux. The palate is medium-bodied with a tannic entry, good substance but needing a little more flesh towards the finish. I would want to re-taste this after a year in bottle. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Kirwan 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Kirwan 2009 is more reserved on the nose, tightly coiled black fruits, a touch of woodland, mint and sous-bois, but gaining intensity on the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, perhaps slightly over-extracted tannins, but imbued with a pleasant, sorbet-like freshness on the finish. Good length her but less generous than other Margaux at this early stage. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Labegorce 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose on the Labegorce 2009 is very precise with sprightly black fruits, crushed stone and a touch of cassis. Nicely composed and surfeit with freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very pure and silky towards the harmonious finish. This is very fine and showing better than in barrel. Excellent Margaux from this estate. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Lascombes 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Lascombes 2009 has a pretty nose that perhaps lacks the complexity, the breeding of its peers, although it develops some attractive floral scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a chocolate-tinged entry, a lot of new oak that rather obfuscates the fruit underneath, leading to a New World tinged finish. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Malescot St Exupery 95
Tasted at Wine Future Hong Kong. The Malescot St. Exupery has a tightly wound bouquet that needs coaxing from the glass, but it has very fine delineation with rich ripe blackberry, dark plum, a touch of cassis and well-integrated vanillary new oak that will need several years to integrate. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, sumptuous in style, sleek and stylish. The word that sums up this Margaux is panache...sheer panache. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Margaux 98
Tasted at the chateau with Paul Pontallier, who told me that the 2009 was bottled in mid-August because of the density of the tannins required a little more barrel ageing. This has 13.1% alcohol compared to around 13.9% for the Pavillon Rouge. With 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, the nose has typical traits of blackberry, wild hedgerow, graphite and a touch of sous-bois, quite “classic” compared to its primeur showing. The palate is simply awesome: brilliantly defined, filigree tannins, amazing balance and poise, layers of blackberry, cassis and a dash of pepper. Silky smooth in texture and blessed with a length I cannot remember tasting on a Margaux at this stage. Surpasses my expectations at primeur. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Pavillon Rouge de Margaux 92
Tasted at the chateau, the Pavillon has a very concentrated nose with raspberry, kirsch, cedar and graphite. Very fine definition. The palate is very well balanced with a spicy/peppery edge on entry. It has very good weight but is tightly coiled and very linear at the moment, so the focus is impressive. But it lends a nascent strictness that counterbalances its innate power. Excellent. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Marquis de Termes 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 has great precision and freshness on the nose with the mineralité coming through with every swirl. The palate is very concentrated with thick, quite chewy tannins, great substance and depth with a sweet, voluptuous finish that lingers in the mouth. It will need several years to mellow but it will be worth the wait. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Monbrison 87
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose does not quite have the delineation of other Margaux wines, the palate medium-bodied but a little over-extracted and missing some precision and freshness towards the finish. Good but not great. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Palmer 95
Tasted with Thomas Duroux at the property, the Palmer 2009 has a very pure bouquet with the Merlot exuberant and vivacious. Superb definition and clarity, quite contained compared recent Palmer vintages and it is all the better for it. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with a sorbet-like freshness. Powdery tannins at the moment, a linearity and symmetry that is beguiling. The oak is supremely well-integrated on the finish, sumptuous and opulent with lush dark plum fruit, with just a hint of spice lingering 30+ seconds after the wine is ejected. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Alter Ego de Palmer 90+
The Alter Ego has a very well-defined bouquet, very precise with touches of dark cherries, Morello, crushed violet, rose petal with an underlying sorbet-like freshness. The palate has good acidity on the entry, a little angular at first but coalescing in the glass but it never loses that citric thread of acidity. Just a little abrupt on the finish for now. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Prieuré-Lichine 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Prieure-Lichine is fresh and lively on the nose, leaping from the glass with vibrant blackberry and wild hedgerow, hints of crushed stone and sous-bois underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight salty tang on the entry, fine tannins with a composed, rounded, generous finish that lacquers the mouth with peppery black fruits and a touch of tobacco. Very fine. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Rauzan Gassies 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. There is just a faint touch of greenness on the nose and although it is not complex (especially compared to Segla) it has decent definition and freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little cooked meat inflecting the spicy dark black fruit with a foursquare finish. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Rauzan Segla 95
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. Hmm...not sure about the label that looks vaguely like one my six-year old daughter scrawled the other day, but the wine is superb. It lifts from the glass with pure black cherries, cassis, a touch of crushed stone and pressed violets. This is very complex and perfumed. The palate is medium-bodied with sensual tannins, brilliant balance and a caressing, utterly refined, velvety finish that is impossible to dislike. There is just a touch of bay leaf lingering on the finish – more classic in style than in barrel. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Siran 86
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very sweet and showing just a little too much oak at the moment, with touches of sur-maturite. The palate is full-bodied with dense, chewy tannins and lacking a little freshness towards the finish. I will probably end up preferring the 2010 to the 2009. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau du Tertre ?
The du Tertre has a strange tinny note on the nose, which is rather distracting. Perhaps this is due to its recent bottling? The palate is medium-bodied with a slight hardness on the entry and the mid-palate does not have the cohesion of its peers. This is a rather vexing showing so I will endeavour to re-taste this next year. Tasted October 2011.
Medoc, Listrac & Moulis + Cru Bourgeois
2009 Chateau d’Aurilhac 90
This recommended Cru Bourgeois ‘09 has a well-defined, crisp bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a touch of sous-bois – well integrated oak here. The palate is crisp and quite sweet on the entry with ripe red cherries, fresh strawberry and quite tart. Left 30 minutes in the glass, the d’Aurilhac finally moved up several gears, attaining harmony and focus. Silky smooth on the finish, quite lush but with the acidity to keep it all in balance. I ended up really enjoying this Haut-Medoc, but do allow it 45-60 minutes to open up. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Belgrave 86
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Belgrave has a slightly stalky nose, but there is decent fruit concentration here. The palate is very soft and supple, but to be honest it is lacking backbone and structure. Early drinking pleasure. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Bernadotte 90
Tasted at Chateau Pichon-Lalande. The Bernadotte 2009 has a slightly subdued bouquet at first, but opens ajar, offering blackberry, cedar and crushed stone. Very fine delineation although it does not exude vigour at this stage, partly due to bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with a subtle, peppery entry and shows good weight on the mid-palate. Very tensile and taut, strict and linear towards the finish but showing very fine purity with a vibrant finish. That bouquet should awake with another 12-18 months, but which time this will be a very fine Bernadotte. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Bourdieu 90
This is a lovely Cru Bourgeois: very pure and feminine on the nose with crisp red berries, redcurrant and candied orange peel. The palate is fleshy but not cloying with layers of ripe sweet red fruit, leading to a very lithe sensual finish where the oak is supremely well integrated. Bravo! Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Cantemerle 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Cantemerle 2009 has a lovely floral, almost Margaux-like bouquet with fine delineation and intensity. The palate is well balanced with fine delineation, a little grainy on the entry but very focused on the supple finish. This is a very attractive Cantemerle that should age with panache. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Chasse Spleen 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Chasse Spleen is just a little disjointed on the nose at the moment, but comes together with aeration with touches of cigar box, raspberry coulis and Tiptree raspberry jam. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, high extraction with quite a rich, plum and blackberry tinged finish that coats the mouth but just lacks a little finesse. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Clarke 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Chateau Clarke 2009 has a slightly foursquare, conservative nose that is well defined with attractive cedar and sous-bois aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, quite fleshy in the mouth with a silky finish that lacks a little backbone but is very well crafted. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Dillon 88
A blend of 52% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc matured in oak for 12 months, the Chateau Dillon (Cru Bourgeois) has a seductive plum-tinged bouquet that is very lifted but not opulent, with hints of dark chocolate developing with time. The palate is full-bodied with sweet, ripe chocolate-tinged dark fruits. The oak is just a little dominant for me towards the finish, although it has sufficient fruit to absorb that in the long-term. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Ducluzeau 86
Tasted at Ducru Beaucaillou, this Listrac has a simple, fleshy Merlot-driven nose that is generous, if lacking the complexity of Bruno Borie’s other Listrac, Fourcas-Borie. The palate is a little raw on the entry: compact with firm tannins, but seems abrupt on the finish. I prefer the Fourcas-Borie in 2009. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau La Fon du Berger 84
This Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois has a rather cloying, saccharine bouquet that suggests that it was picked a little too late and this comes through on the fleshy palate that lacks sufficient acidity to keep it balanced. It is pleasurable, albeit in a rather superficial manner. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Fourcas-Borie 89
Tasted at Ducru Beaucaillou, the Fourcas-Borie has a light, earthy nose with black fruits, a slight wet clayey, perhaps “putty” scent in the background. The palate has a fleshy, spicy entry with a generous sprinkling of white pepper. I like the weight and the delineation towards the finish, which has a pleasant rustic edge and a saline kiss on the aftertaste. There is lots of personality packed in here. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Fourcas-Dupre 87
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 is a little subdued on the nose, touches of dried leaves inflecting the black earthy fruit. The palate has a sharp entry, but coalesces nicely with a slightly pinched finish. Not bad, but could be better. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Fourcas-Holsten 85
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. Somehow there seems to be a little under-ripeness on the nose. The palate is quite austere and foursquare and the finish seems rather hard. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Gemeillan 86
This Cru Bourgeois, a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, has a light nose of dark plum, wild strawberry, cedar and a touch of graphite. It would benefit from more vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a sharp, almost citric entry. There is a lot of fruit concentration, but I would have preferred more reserve and backbone towards the finish that has a slight metallic tincture. Not bad overall though. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Goulée 89
Tasted at Cos d’Estournel. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. The Goulee 2009 is certainly packed full of plummy, dark berried fruits on the nose: quite opulent and floral. The palate has a very chalky entry with a dry backbone. Really quite masculine with touches of green pepper and tar. It is a little brusque towards the finish. The most “Saint Estephe” Goulee that I have tasted. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Grandis 88+
This Cru Bourgeois has a slightly reticent nose at first, but unwinds nicely over 10 to 15 minutes with wild strawberry and raspberry notes intermingling with mocha and coca. I find the oak a little pronounced at the moment, but it should integrate with another 12-24 months in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly furry, chocolate-tinged tannins. Good acidity, perhaps just a little overdone towards the finish. I think this deserves a modicum of time in the cellar as it is a little brusque at the moment. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Canteloup 84
This Cru Bourgeois has an agreeable, ripe, chocolate-tinged bouquet with touches of Morello and fresh apricot. The palate is ripe on the entry, although for me the oak is too dominant and does not seem clean, imparting a very dry, raw finish. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lacoste Borie 89
Tasted at Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste. The Lacoste Borie 2009 has a well-defined, slightly leafy, cedar-tinged bouquet that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, good intensity on the mid-palate, still a little brusque and tannic towards the finish, but full of freshness and with great backbone. Classic and traditional...there is nothing wrong with that! Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lacour Jacquet 86
This Cru Bourgeois 2009 has a lifted nose of blueberry, dark plum and tart red cherries that achieve fine purity, if lacking just a little complexity. The palate is rather tannic on the entry with citric acidity, but there is a touch of hardness towards the finish that renders this more like a 2010. A little bitter-sweet here, with a black olive tang on the aftertaste. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau La Lagune 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 La Lagune is composed and very “natural” on the nose: blackberry leaf, cedar and a touch of tobacco with well integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy mouthfeel, but underneath there is a fine lattice of tannins with a delicate touch of spice on the harmonious finish. This is a very fine La Lagune. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lalande 90
What a delightful Listrac Cru Bourgeois this is! Don’t even bother reading this note because it is a delicious wine! The nose is bursting full of mulberry, plum and cassis fruit with fine delineation and well integrated oak. The palate is well balanced, taut for the first 30 minutes but magically putting on weight with aeration, revealing layers of sweet red fruits, plum and minerals. This is surfeit with exuberance and nonchalance. Bravo!
2009 Chateau de Lamarque 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The de Lamarque ’09 has a ripe, almost opulent bouquet with luscious blackberry and cassis; lacquered in a sheen of quality new oak. The palate is sweet and inviting on the entry, a nice salty tang on the back palate with a finish that has just the right amount of dryness. Excellent. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lassus 85
The nose is very subdued and anonymous despite rigorous coaxing. Eventually there are blackberry and mocha aromas but they are lacking delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, the oak dominant at the moment and tending to obscure the fruit towards the finish that shows a little alcoholic warmth. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Laulan Ducos 85
A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, the Laulan Ducos is missing a little fruit concentration on the rustic nose with light aromas of blackberry, raspberry and strong tobacco scents, although the do not really meld together. The palate is medium-bodied with sharp acidity on the entry. Very foursquare for a 2009 with a terse, dry finish, it is redeemed by good freshness but there is a touch of volatility marring the overall effect. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Lestruelle 86
This Cru Bourgeois has a pleasant bouquet of blackberry, soy and allspice, although it would benefit from more freshness and the oak is not quite in synch with the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with green pepper and spice. Quite “classic” in style with a touch of austerity towards the finish and just a slight blur of alcohol. Not bad, although not for long-term cellaring. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Loirac 85
This Medoc has a well-defined, very “natural” bouquet with notes of blackberry, mocha and cedar. The oak is well integrated. Unfortunately, the palate does not quite match the promise of the nose, principally because here the oak is a little heavy-handed and is not quite in synch with the fruit, whilst the finish is rather short and mean. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Maison Blanche 87
This Cru Bourgeois has a very attractive, “classic” bouquet with dark cherry and cassis intermingling with dry tobacco and a touch of cedar. Not intense, but well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine thread of acidity that contrasts nicely with a fleshy, smooth finish. Not great length, but well crafted, fresh and focused. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau de Malescasse ?
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is lacking freshness and vigour whilst the palate is a little diffuse and lacking backbone on the finish. I sincerely hope that this bottle is not representative. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Moulin-a-Vent 85?
This is a perplexing Cru Bourgeois. I appreciate the nose that is well-defined with crisp leafy scents neatly counterbalancing some lovely ripe red-berried fruits tinged with graphite. However, I am concerned about the rather hot finish on the palate that through continued aeration turned a little volatile. The label says 14% alcohol, which is high but not excessive in the right circumstances. I wonder if this was just an off-bottle?
2009 Chateau La Pirouette 86
A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 20% Petit Verdot aged for 12 months in oak, this has a rather leafy bouquet with that Petit Verdot imparting savoury, smoky, sous-bois aromas. Nice definition, though I need a little more vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a nice leafy, some might say green edge. La Pirouette is very classic in style, reserved, a little peppery and a little austere towards the finish, but I like its natural style. Not a competition winner, but the kind of wine you would end up finishing sooner than its more pretentious peers. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Plagnac 90
Even the harshest critic in the world (Mrs. M) agreed that this is one adorable Cru Bourgeois. There is nothing extraordinary about it. Don’t expect to be overwhelmed by its complexity of power. But it certainly has an exquisite, understated sous-bois-tinged bouquet with wonderful freshness and delineation. The palate does not disappointed: beautifully balanced with well-knit oak, blackberry and cedar infused with such freshness and crispness that you cannot help but take another sip…and another…and another. Chapeau! Tasted December 2011
2009 Chateau Pontey 88
This Médoc Cru Bourgeois has a very attractive bouquet with blackberry, raspberry leaf, a touch of blueberry and cedar. The oak is well-integrated and it maintains fine freshness throughout 30 minutes aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a smoky, tobacco-tinged entry. There is good depth of fruit intensity married with fine tannic structure and a crisp cedar, spicy finish that curiously reminds me of a Mourvedre. Very fine. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Potensac 90
Tasted at Chateau Leoville Las-Cases. The Potensac 2009 has good fruit intensity on the nose with blueberry, blackberry, dried orange peel and a touch of sous-bois turning more graphite with time. The palate is well balanced with a crisp entry of blackberry, blueberry and a touch of graphite. Citric freshness, almost peppery towards the finish with very good length. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chapelle de Potensac 87
Tasted at Chateau Leoville Las-Cases. This is showing better than during primeur with notes of fresh blackberry, cedar and baked blueberries, certainly showing less greenness than a few months ago. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins but good fruit intensity. A little angular on the finish but that will sort itself out with time. Again, there is a citric freshness, what you might call a “vitamin” quality. It is just lacking a little length overall. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Poujeaux 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Poujeaux 2009 has a rich, almost decadent, honeyed bouquet that somehow manages to retain admirable delineation and poise, blossoming in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite bold tannins and a very composed, seductive finish with vibrant blackberry, tobacco and spice. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Ricaudet 87
This Cru Bourgeois has a pleasant bouquet with black rather than red fruits, cedar and a touch of autumn leaves. The palate is quite soft in line with the vintage, dusty black fruits tinged with graphite that leads to a foursquare but defined finish that needs a little more persistency. Fine. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Saransot-Dupré 87
This Listrac Cru Bourgeois ’09 has a pleasant, seemingly merlot-driven bouquet with plum, strawberry jam and a touch of black coffee, well interwoven oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite “juicy” tannins, good acidity and a pleasing smooth finish that does not quite fulfil the promise of the nose. But it is an enjoyable 2009 that should drink well over the next 4-5 years.
2009 Chateau Tour-du-Roc 81
This Cru Bourgeois Haut Medoc has a very ripe nose of macerated red cherries, kirsch and cassis that is just a tad over-the-top. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, fleshy entry, what seems a fairly high alcohol level, which tends to drive the finish at the expense of freshness. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Tour Saint-Joseph 85
The Cru Bourgeois 2009 has a ripe, candied nose with red cherries, raspberry coulis and a touch of mint. It is a little heady at first but it seems to calm down with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly oaky entry and it seems to suppress the fruit towards the finish, which has a blur of alcohol. But it does demonstrate decent weight and length. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Tourteran ?
The nose on this Cru Bourgeois is not showing well: light with some green peppery aromas that suggest some lots did not reach full ripeness. Ditto, the palate is rather sharp and bitter on the entry, the tannins aggressive on the finish. I hope this is not a representative bottle. Tasted November 2011.
Pessac-Leognan (Blanc)
2009 Chateau Bouscaut Blanc 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Bouscaut Blanc 2009 has an attractive, grassy nose that is well defined with cooking apple and a touch of lime zest. The palate has a nice leesy quality to it, quite fat in the mouth with a generous, honey tinged finish. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Carbonnieux Blanc has a stern, linear bouquet that is focused but missing a little dimension compared to its peers. The palate is well balanced with a touch of orange sorbet and citrus lemon on the entry, just a touch of shrillness at the moment but that should ebb away. Good length. Fine. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Chantegrive Blanc 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Chantegrive Blanc has a lifted nose of grapefruit, melon and hints of honey with fine delineation. The palate has a crisp entry with a healthy touch of lemongrass and ginger livening things up. Fine. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a lovely, beautifully defined bouquet with touches of apricot blossom and honeysuckle emerging with continued aeration. The palate is crisp and vibrant on the entry: dried lemon peel, a hint of honeycomb and vanilla that fans out nicely to a waxy finish. It has great length and persistency in the mouth. An excellent white 2009 from Mon. Bernard. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Ferrande Blanc 83?
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is rather simple whilst the palate is also lacking real conviction. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc 85
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. I am not quite sure of the white wine from de Fieuzal. It is muted on the nose and despite coaxing, there is little to describe. The palate is balanced but lacking real complexity. It slakes the thirst, but not memorable. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau de France Blanc 86
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The de France Blanc has a primal, grapefruit and honeydew melon-scented bouquet with moderate definition, although it needs more vigour. The palate is well balanced with a lightly honeyed entry with good acidity, but missing some complexity towards the finish. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Bergey Blanc 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Haut-Bergey Blanc has fine intensity on the nose with scents of apple-blossom, wild honey and lemon peel. Good lift and complexity. The palate is vibrant and fresh, good acidity and depth with a slightly honeyed, spice-tinged finish that reminds me of an aged Condrieu. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut Brion Blanc 96
Tasted at the chateau. Compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc 2009, I find that this does not have quite the same degree of vigour at the moment, yet the palate is very harmonious and showing great complexity with notes of dried ginger, lemon peel, crushed stone and a little spice. There is wonderful focus and precision towards the finish, a white HB deserving long-term cellaring. Tasted September 2011.
2009 La Clarte de Haut-Brion 88
The second wine of Haut Brion Blanc has a lovely nose of grapefruit, melon and leesy aromas that are fresh and well-defined. The palate is medium-bodied and quite primal, a touch of honey on the entry, a little lower acidity than I was expecting and perhaps just a little simplistic? Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc 88
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is a little simple compared to some of its peers. Moderate definition. The palate is better with prominent oak lending it a vanillary veneer, however, the finish is dry and grassy. Maybe picked a day or two too late? Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau La Louviere Blanc 86
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The La Louviere Blanc ‘09 is lacking some freshness on the nose. The palate has a sharp malic entry and comes across a little shrill at the moment, lacking some persistency on the finish. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere Blanc 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. This has a wonderful, almost Burgundy-like bouquet with very expressive mineralité. Crushed stone, a touch of apple-blossom and dried flowers with deftly integrated new oak. The palate is well balanced with a crisp entry, not quite as entrancing as the nose at this point, but the mineralité really comes through towards the tense finish. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc 94
Just to remind viewers, this is the old Laville HB (I wish that had kept the old name...I was rather attached to it.) Anyhow, the 2009 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion has a lifted nose of grapefruit, minerals, lemon curd and prominent leesy aromas all with fine definition. The palate is well balanced with good acidity with notes of dried apricot, honey, just a faint hint of toffee apple and superb crispness on the finish. This is a lovely La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, but something tells me this might not be as long-term as the Haut-Brion Blanc. We will see. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Olivier Blanc ?
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is certainly lacking fruit concentration and seems bland compared to Malartic-Lagraviere. The palate is better with some light honeyed tones, but the finish lacks definition and tension. I would like to re-taste this at a later juncture. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Pape-Clement Blanc 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very clean with well-integrated oak, although showing just a little sulphur at the moment. The palate is very refined with rosewater, citrus lemon, apricot and star fruit. Nice weight on the finish although not the most complex Pape Clement Blanc that I have encountered. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Pique-Caillou Blanc 85
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is rather stern and introspective at the moment with bruised apple and pear skin. The palate is lacking some delineation and complexity. This is fine but not memorable. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Rahoul Blanc 88
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The bouquet is rather waxy with touches of dried lemon peel and beeswax, but fine delineation. The palate is fresh and vibrant with good acidity, the Semillon lending a hint of apricot and honeycomb on the finish. Fine. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very refined with scents of apple-blossom, grapefruit, lanolin and orange sorbet. Fine delineation but very composed. The palate is well balanced with good acidity, quite taut at the moment with a precise, mineral-rich finish. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau La Tour-Martillac Blanc 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very fresh and vibrant with lemon peel, a touch of ginger and dried orange peel – quite aromatic for a Bordeaux Blanc. The palate is vibrant on the entry with touches of lemongrass and crisp Granny Smith apple, whilst the finish is crisp and very focused finish. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
Pessac-Leognan (Rouge)
2009 Chateau Bouscaut 89
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. I find this showing just a little over-ripeness on the nose, although the palate is sweet and rounded and generous in the mouth. However, I need more backbone and perhaps more complexity. Seductive, but not profound. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Carbonneiux 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is a little anonymous compared to its peers, the palate a little pinched on the entry with firm tannins, but showing an agreeable sense of reserve and austerity that is unusual for the vintage. Not a wine that goes out and grabs you by the sense, but I like its style and hopefully the aromatics will improve with bottle age. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is open and generous, with red cherries, raspberry, a touch of vanilla and a little alcohol. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of burnt toast on the entry. This is quite spicy with firm backbone and a pleasant sense of reserve on the finish. Excellent. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Domaine de Chevalier 94
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Domaine de Chevalier has a very fine bouquet with ripe blackberry, dark plum and cassis with good definition. The alcohol is just kept in check. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated smooth tannins. It caresses the mouth with its sleek, black fruit with just a smudge of alcohol lending roundness on the finish. For Domaine de Chevalier this is a relatively decadent wine, but well crafted and demonstrates great persistency in the mouth. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau de Fieuzal 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The de Fieuzal 2009 has a stylish, modern but succinct bouquet with pure dark cherries, raspberry, vanilla and a touch of cassis. Prominent oak but well integrated with the wine. The palate is smooth and sensual with fine, saturated tannins and a sleek finish that might just be a little too sweet for my liking. But it think this will age well. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau de France 88
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose has good intensity with dark plum, blackberry and a touch of sous-bois. Fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance, crisp tannins but just a little overdone on the finish when I was seeking a little more dryness or reserve. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Bailly 94
Tasted several occasions with consistent notes, this taken in Hong Kong. Deep and clear in colour. The nose is very well defined with superb delineation with tightly wound scented of blackberry, bay leaf, black olive and a touch of crushed stone. Very Graves-like. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannins and tension. Very feminine but there is good backbone here, graceful towards the finish. Superb. Tasted November 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Bergey 91+
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very closed at the moment, although there is certainly good fruit concentration here. The palate is rounded with smooth with lush red fruits, fine acidity but just missing a little complexity and depth towards the finish. Very well crafted and sure to improve with bottle age as it develops more personality. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Haut-Brion 97
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The Chateau Haut-Brion 2009 is blessed with a very complex, but almost understated bouquet, the Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) much more pronounced here imparting more undergrowth/tobacco aromas at present. Very fine definition and freshness but more taciturn. The palate is medium-bodied with a brightness on the entry that makes up for the introverted aromatics. Very good acidity, fresh and very tense, again the Cabernet defining the finish with touches of graphite and cedar. Grippy, austere finish at the moment, suggesting that this is a long-term Haut-Brion, but going back and forth between the two neighbours, I feel that this has edge in terms of finesse. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 89
Tasted at Haut Brion. The Clarence de Haut-Brion 2009 has a very different nose compared to the La Chapelle, much more reticent at first, a “doleful” bouquet that takes time to come out of its shell. Blackberry, fresh black olives and a touch of seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with very good fruit concentration, the tannins a little drier than La Chapelle, perhaps a little coarser at this early juncture. At the moment I prefer the tension displayed by the La Chapelle. This is much more broody and introverted at the moment. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau La Louviere 91
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very attractive: quite floral and pure with fine delineation. Scents of blackberry and a hint of dark plum mixed with tertiary aromas. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, great purity with a citric seam towards the harmonious finish. This is just a lovely Pessac ’09. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion 90
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose displays good intensity after starting off a little bashful, but opening nicely with pure blackberry, cassis and a touch of dark plum. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded, plump mouthfeel, touches of dried herbs and cedar with a slightly dry finish that is not quite in synch with the rest of the wine. I would give this 2-3 years. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau La Tour-Martillac 89?
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose seems a little smudged compared to its peers, perhaps a touch of over-extraction here. The palate is sweet and sappy on the entry, but it lacks real backbone and structure beneath the carapace of ripe black fruits. Perhaps this is a little awkward after bottling? Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere 92
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very closed at the moment: dark berries, tar, a touch of liquorice coming through with aeration and later, a hint of something estuarine. The palate is full-bodied and quite toasty in texture, the oak a little dominant at the moment but there is plenty of fruit to absorb it. Sweet and rounded on the finish with a touch of burnt toast lingering in the mouth. One of the finest recent wines from this estate. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 97
Comparing the Grand Vin with La Chapelle, I must say at this premature stage the aromatics are very similar, perhaps with a little more precision on the La Mission but certainly there is not much to distinguish between them. But give this two or three minutes in the glass and begins to blossom, offering pure dark cherry, cassis and blackberry fruits, crushed stone, cola and a touch of graphite. The palate is superb and disguising the 14.7% alcohol well, the tannins strident and arching over the wine. There is a saline/spicy notes just on the finish that leaves the mouth tingling. Tasted September 2011.
2009 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 90
The La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2009 has a very crisp, well-defined bouquet with notes of dark brambly fruit, wild hedgerow, bay leaf and just a touch of spice. The palate has a citrus entry with hints of bitter lemon inflecting the tart red fruits. Wonderful tension here, lively and poised with chalky tannins. Quite open and generous, but this La Chapelle deserves three to four years in bottle to really show what it can do. Tasted September 2011.
2009 Chateau Olivier Rouge 87
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 Olivier has a high-toned raisin-tinged bouquet that is missing some delineation. The palate is full-bodied with bold, but slightly coarse tannins, a little grainy in texture with a touch of spice towards the simple finish. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Pape-Clement 93
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The nose is very pure with blackberry, blueberry, crushed stone and a touch of dried flowers. Good definition. There is a slight sorbet note coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fully ripe tannins, firm grip and layers of sweet black, liquorice and spice infused fruit. A little oaky on the finish but that is to be expected. Very rounded and sensual, but I prefer the tension demonstrated by the nascent 2010. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Pique-Caillou 88
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. I much prefer the red to the white. The nose is intense with blackberry, a touch of damson and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky tannins but good weight on the allspice and tar-tinged finish. Fine early to medium-term drinking. Tasted October 2011.
2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 93
Tasted at the UGC in London and also at Wine Future Hong Kong. The nose is very lifted with plump red-berried fruit, blackberry and cassis that comes across quite New World in style. The palate is full-bodied with huge tannins, luscious with plum and savoury. Two impressions here: the sample in London coming across a little forced, but the sample in Hong Kong demonstrates more finesse and natural balance, with fine precision and mineralité towards the structured finish. Tasted November 2011.
2009er sucht, der sollte momentan zu den kleinen und kleinsten Weinen suchen. Auf den Chateau Bois Pertuis 2009 bin ich gekommen, weil ich den 2010er für das doppelte Geld in Pfund in einem britischen Supermarkt samt Decanterauszeichnung fand. Warum dann nicht den 2009er bei Tegut in Jena kaufen?
Na. Sorry, dass ich Euch in den Jenenser-Supermarkt gejagt habe. 
Aber so schlecht, fand ich den Wein nicht. Die Notiz vom 2010er passt für meinen Geschmack schon eher. Da ist wirklich viel Neuholz dabei - obwohl die sehr weinaffinen Londoner Kollegen meiner Frau alle sehr angetan von dem Stoff waren. 
