Bordeaux 2009

Hallo zusammen,

tut mir Leid, dass ich mich jetzt erst wieder melde, musste gestern Abend Wein trinken . Zur Frage, wie die Verkostungsergebnisse zustande gekommen sind, zitiere ich Neal Martin:

The Bordeaux 2009s were hailed upon release during a unique primeur campaign, though the crucial test would come when the wines reached 10 years of age. Now it’s time to put them to that test. Two tastings, one sighted and one blind, confirmed magnificent highs...yet no vintage should be beyond criticism.

Und hier am Beispiel von Batailley, die VKN der zwei Bestandsaufnahmen (erstgenannte offen verkostet, zweite verdeckt):

The 2009 Batailley seems a little closed on the nose at first and needs more encouragement than its peers, eventually unfurling with cedar and graphite infused black fruit, slightly earthy in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine definition, quite linear and poised with a touch of cracked black pepper on the finish. Excellent. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' Ten Year On tasting.

The 2009 Batailley has a generous bouquet with more red fruit than its peers, laced with brown spices and touches of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly savoury entry, quite forward in style with lower acidity than expected, sage and meat juices towards what feels like a Merlot-driven finish. Drink over the next decade. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

Grüße

Hartmut

Und jetzt ein paar VKN zu einigen von Ingo angesprochenen Weinen:

The 2009 Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse has a very composed and focused bouquet with brambly red fruit, mulberry, loam and cedar aromas, maybe just a little new oak still waiting to be fully subsumed after 10 years. The palate is well balanced with a medicinal, honey textured opening, plenty of cough candy infusing the red fruit, good depth but just missing some grip and density on the rather one-dimensional finish. This has not aged as well as some of the others from Nicolas Thienpont's stable, such as Larcis Ducasse and this is one example where I prefer the preceding vintage. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel has an expansive and undeniably seductive bouquet, a mélange of red and black fruit, cold slate, damp earthy bordering on mulch-like aromas all delivering with ample freshness and certainly better delineation that it showed in its infancy. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite rich in style, decadent with a sweet core of fruit that is attractive but very un-Bordeaux like. Cos d’Estournel? Plush but bereft of intellect. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is exactly as I predict on the nose, almost overwhelming with over-ripe black plum, raisin, fig and black olive, smudged and lacking the precision and tension of the 2009 Montrose. The palate is sweet and cloying on the entry, hedonistic and voluminous, yet unequivocally bereft of tension and sense of terroir on the finish. Frankly, it is ageing exactly as I predicted when I first tasted it from barrel. Not my style yet still enjoyable. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' Ten Year On tasting.

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, liquorice, hints of star anise and boysenberry jam, opulent and vivacious, a little glossy perhaps? The palate is medium-bodied with very supple and lithe tannin matched with a fine bead of acidity. Lovely balance here, fine tension with a insistent grip, layers of black fruit laced with cedar and graphite towards the very Pauillac-like finish. Superb. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' Ten Year On tasting.

The 2009 Haut-Bailly, matured in 55% new oak, has a powerful, opulent and “daring” bouquet with layers of black fruit infused with cedar, graphite, pain grillé and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly savoury black fruit laced with pencil lead and spices. There is great depth and volume to this Haut-Bailly, allied with a softness that makes it more approachable than say, the 2010. It feels long in the mouth with firm grip with a saline note on the finish. Excellent, although I suspect the follow-up will ultimately prove superior. Tasted at the château.

The 2009 Pontet-Canet needs more encouragement from the glass than its peers, but it rewards the imbiber with seductive pure cassis and blackberry fruit, touches of autumn leaves and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, a lovely bead of acidity. A harmonious, brown spice and smoke tinged finish fans out with confidence. You could open this now but it still has two more decades of drinking pleasure to give. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

The 2009 Vieux-Château-Certan has a gorgeous bouquet with red fruit, warm bricks, just a hint of sloes and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry red fruit, firm tannin and well judged acidity. It tapers in slightly towards the finish where I would like a little more roundness but there is persistence here. Readers know I am huge fan of Alexandre Thienpont and this property, but I aver that this growing season never suited them. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

Grüße

Hartmut

Und der Star darf natürlich nicht fehlen:

The 2009 Montrose has a taut, brilliantly defined bouquet with intense black fruit laced with crushed stone, forest floor, crushed rose petals and a touch of slate. Magnificent. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, good depth and grip, plenty of graphite locked in here with a bravura finish that indicates that this Saint-Estèphe is in for the long-haul. It may well deserve a higher score as it evolves in bottle. Everything you wish for in a Montrose. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

The 2009 Montrose is a brilliant wine from the estate. It has a detailed and intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar, crushed stone and light floral scents, tightly wound and clearly preparing for long term ageing. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity. Almost symmetric in style with a finish so precise that beggars belief that this is a 2009. Wonderful. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits Ten Year On tasting.

The 2009 Montrose remains a backward Leviathan Saint-Estèphe at ten-years of age, a wine that is clearly going to age over many decades. It has an intoxicating bouquet with blackberry, briary, crushed stone and rose petals that just gains more and more intensity with aeration without losing one iota of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, adorned with an unerring sense of symmetry and precision. It just seems to lacquer the mouth with intense fruit and leaves a persistent wake of mineral drenched black fruit. Incredible. Tasted at the château.

Harti, die 93 für Roc de Cambes ist dann vmtl. blind? Und er taucht nur einmal in der Liste auf, weil er offen "durchgefallen" ist?

Ja und nein :

The 2009 Roc de Cambes is quite backward like the 2009 La Gomerie with ample redcurrant, raspberry, loam and sandalwood aromas eventually coming through with aeration. It does not quite possess the cohesion of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, velvety smooth in texture with a lovely dash of black pepper and clove that infuses the plush red fruit. Firmly into its secondary phase, this feels à point, though I appreciate the persistency on the finish. Very fine. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

Grüße

Hartmut

Danke!

Der Batailley dürfte derzeit mehr oder weniger zu sein. Hatte ihn bisher zwei Mal im Glas: ca. 1/2 Jahr nach der Ankunft und dann vier oder fünf Jahre später. Aus initial 94 Punkten, ein Wein zum Verlieben und kistenweise Versenken, wurde ein Untoter. Wenn es eine Verschlussphase gibt, dann war das eine in Reinform. Punkte unter 90, um einen Anhaltspunkt zu geben. Damals fasste ich den Entschluss, die nächste Flasche erst ab 2025 wieder zu öffnen.

Zitat Jochen R.:
Jens,
ich würde mich nicht alleine auf die VKN einzelner (in
dem Fall meine) verlassen. Bei unserer Belgrave-
Vertikale im letzten Jahr gab es auch durchaus
kritische Meinungen bzgl. der typischen Reifetoene.
Ich steh darauf ...
Also Testflasche kaufen und selber probieren, wäre
mein Rat.
Moin,
Hausaufgabe erledigt. Habe 2010 und 2009 Belgrave nebeneinander getrunken. Für mich ist 2010 der bessere Wein. Schmeckte auch am 4. Tag noch ausgezeichnet. 2009 gefiel mir am ersten Abend am besten. Entwickelt am 2. Tag deutlich Portnoten. Ich tendiere daher klar zu 2010 und kann mir in diesem Fall auch gut vorstellen, dass der Wein von weiterer Reife profitiert.
Gruß Jens

Habe 2010 und 2009 Belgrave nebeneinander getrunken. Für mich ist 2010 der bessere Wein. Schmeckte auch am 4. Tag noch ausgezeichnet. 2009 gefiel mir am ersten Abend am besten. Entwickelt am 2. Tag deutlich Portnoten. Ich tendiere daher klar zu 2010 und kann mir in diesem Fall auch gut vorstellen, dass der Wein von weiterer Reife profitiert.
Gruß Jens

Jens, du machst mich glücklich. Ich habe vom 10er noch zweistellig im Keller.

Grüße

dylan

Gern geschehen. Aber wie ich dich kenne, wusstest du das schon vorher.
Gruß Jens